DIY rusted strut tower fix for dummies(Ive never done this before)

[Matt Kreikamp]

those pictures a pretty helpful thanks man. the work you did looks nice did you just use a hole saw to cut the big hole for the compression bolt? I like the way you did it but I really wanna get my car back on the road asap that said I'd hate to have this break out in a couple month. I have a rust hole in my strut mount similar to the one in your picture you think I should be worried about that breaking out is that why you put the plate behinde it? Also did you use a spot weld cutter for your spot welds?

[ItHurtz]

Thats the best after I have after it was all fixed
518306d24c13fab3795b318eaf8c8b2c by smetters20, on Flickr

[ItHurtz]

Passenger side before, that got a patch
3rck by smetters20, on Flickr

[Matt Kreikamp]

I got the spot weld cutter if you guys think this wont be safe just welding along the edge to edge like the youtube video I referenced in my other thread. I'll take the mount out and fix it like Ihurtz tower. But if I dont have to worry about this fix for a couple years and its safe then I'm alright with it. I'm also concerned if I do fix it like Ihurtz that I wont be able to get the mount back to its proper postion.

[idrivejunk]

If you remove the brace, the mount holes (and the spot weld holes) will guide you back to the exact position where it attaches to the tower top. Nothing says your patch has to be as big as ITHURTZ's. So no need to cut all the holes and everything away on yours. You could scribe or draw an outline, too. The point really is just that the overlapped replacement metal should go on from the bottom for best structural integrity. If the GM part for this is $80 thats what I would want, to save time / labor even if all I did was to cut a patch from it. As you see, it isn't easy to match that shape. Welding inside the right rear strut tower from the wheel side is safer in terms of distance from potential spark damage / hazard, than welding inside the trunk. So plan that way if possible.