Thread: Project LQ4 - V8 S10 - Sold.

Originally Posted by BrandonHall10

I lol'd.

It sure is a mouthful, and no vowels, so you cant make it sound like a word. Maybe that's the barfing sound?

Let's just go with "tank"

Think I may have found a way to keep the factory oil cooler with the conversion headers. The hard lines on the factory adaptor block hit the headers, which obviously won't work. Originally I was just going to use the bypass plate that came with the conversion pan, but the more I thought about it, the more I like the idea of having a functional oil cooler. Especially living out here in the southwest.

I came up with a plan to just cut the hardline where it's still vertical and splice in some rubber trans cooler line. Then tie back into the rubber section of the factory lines further forward. Fab up a bracket to hold them away from the headers with my new welder and call it a day. I didn't like the idea of trusting my oiling system to hose clamps, but I didn't see any other economical option. Until I found this:



Looks like for around $120 total, I'll be able to run 100% AN fittings and braided hose from the engine to the cooler in the radiator. No rubber hose, no hose clamps. Now, AN fittings and lines don't really fit the budget theme of the truck, but I think for something as important as the oiling system, it's money well spent.

Here's the results of yesterdays cleaning



Came out pretty good. The black on the frame there is what's left of the undercoating. I think the oil ate the rest of it.

my 03 gmc the oil cooler lines ran right down the lip of the oil pan from the filter and came out straight under the balancer. cant see how they could be in the way of any thing.

i only know this because i had to replace one, belt blew off and i never noticed the belt knocked the line out of its clip and it rode the balancer and cut it.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

my 03 gmc the oil cooler lines ran right down the lip of the oil pan from the filter and came out straight under the balancer.

No, you're right. That parts all true. What you're forgetting is the big loop they put in the lines to clear the block heater.



That, combined with the fact that the headers hug the block much more than the stock manifolds cause the issue

well then...


on a side note, the cooler and lines hold about 3 quarts of oil. so have like 9 quarts on hand to fill it up the first time. also learned this the hard way lol

Haha! Probably more. The pan and pickup are new and thus bone dry.

i blew the line off due to me failing to get the new line clipped in right, the clip must have been 1/2 on, it lasted 8 hrs of snow plowing and it blew off blocks from home. i coasted home. whats funny is it never took 6 quarts to fill, more like 5 and 3/4, when the line came off the oil pan was dry, i did a filter, pulled the drain plug and it just dripped out a bit aka nothing. put 6 quarts in, fired it up and it was not on the stick. did a wtf looking for a leak, took 3 more to hit the full line. being the cooler line came off, the cooler had to be bone dry too.

what kinda sucks is every oil change your re using 3 qts of old oil. thanks for that GM.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

i did a filter, pulled the drain plug and it just dripped out a bit aka nothing. put 6 quarts in, fired it up and it was not on the stick. did a wtf looking for a leak

This made me laugh.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

what kinda sucks is every oil change your re using 3 qts of old oil. thanks for that GM.

Unless you blow the cooler line.

with your modded set up that might be easier to do. i never gave it a thought, till that day.

Well, with the bay all cleaned up, I decided it was time to address what little rust there was



I've used Ospho in the past and really like it. Price is really good too. $14 for one quart, and it seems to last forever



Here's the results a day later. Mmmm... Chemistry!



Ready for a couple coats of satin black

thats some bad ass product!

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

thats some bad ass product!

I love it. Have you used it before?

i have not ever heard of it, but you can bet your ass i already googled it and am heading to ace to see if they have it. thats pretty amazing.

ospho is good ****, just about the best you can get.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

i have not ever heard of it, but you can bet your ass i already googled it and am heading to ace to see if they have it. thats pretty amazing.

Kind of a must have if you live in the rust belt and work with older vehicles.

Originally Posted by ItHurtz

ospho is good ****, just about the best you can get.

I'm sure POR15 is great stuff also, but a quart of Ospho and a can of spray paint fits my budget a little better.

por15 can suck a dick in my book.

Hot rodders seem to worship Ospho and SPI epoxy primer. I've never used either. As far as I know, anything with phosphoric acid does the trick. Looks like you ought to sand then reapply and sand again then paint. Hey for after paint are you familiar with cavity wax (Rust Fighter if 3M)? For inside the hydroformed section of the frame and anywhere else that isn't protected.

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

Looks like you ought to sand then reapply and sand again then paint.

I probably could. Honestly though, I'm just going to call that good and hit it with some satin rattle paint. I totally respect and appreciate what you do, but I'm certain this project would never get done if I got too hung up on the visual stuff or tied to compete with the pro's. I'm forcing myself to focus on cleanliness and function. It will never be a visual stunner.

I read a thread the other day of a guy doing a V8 swap on a first gen S10. Started out like mine, just a simple swap. Then one thing led to another... Powder coat this, chrome that. Braided stainless everything. Racing parts galore. Five years and $20k later, it's still just a rolling chassis. I just want to get this thing together and smoke some tires!