Yep, its a cammed LS7. Dyno'ed at like 680 I'm told. Sucks about the peel. If thats all it is maybe you can sand it flat and clear it again, if it won't sand and buff up.Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1Adam84
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Yep, its a cammed LS7. Dyno'ed at like 680 I'm told. Sucks about the peel. If thats all it is maybe you can sand it flat and clear it again, if it won't sand and buff up.Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1Adam84
you can have no rad cap, but you need a coolant bottle to fill it from, and thats not gonna be hidden so easy. fords like this set up. and i hate it lol
wash my car too damn it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk
Yeah the valve covers are a bit taller too, I am guessing to allow rockers to clear.
Yeah I actually did not think about reapplying clear over clear.... hmmmm I might just have to try that. Would I just use 1000 grit then clean it off and re-clear it? Sorry my paint knowledge is minimal.
Oh its the radiator cap alright. But you're asking the wrong guy, I had nothing to to with that full retard design lol. All I did was make it look showkar flat, and now I'm back trying to make it all fit again. The rad cap sits much lower, tilted more with only the top edge showing. Its just sitting in the spot saying look at me I'm billet, its not fully installed. I have yet to trim the panel there to make it go on.Quote:
Originally Posted by ericspecullaas
Thats right, 1000 it and go again but practice a little right before, on something small.Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1Adam84
Yeah I think the heads may have been upgraded. They tell me you gotta look pretty hard in the Mast catalog to find stuff under 1000 HP lol.
who ever did that should be punched in the dick with a 20 lb sledge hammer. its makes under the hood all messy when you guys spent so much time making it clean.
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk
Yeah I am using the shop line clear and some medium hardener, weather is pretty decent in the 70's, I did not use any thinner, and I am using a cheap gun with a 1.4 tip.
Better get glass in before washin eh? It has a puke hose, 60s style.Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyDoggs
I am immune to the typical GPF technical armchair critique this time because I'm just mop-up crew on this job. None of the design is mine, and only a fraction of the execution.
A tiny splash of suitable reducer (say 5-10%) might help it work for you. Its easier to get nice flow on horizontal panels but if you're spraying vertical ones and adding reducer be careful because runs don't always start until you look away and those are worse than peel.Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1Adam84
you can come massage my body panels any time man. two thumbs up on your fab work. :th_thumb-up: :th_thumb-up:Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk
LMAO boy I'd like to see you try that one. C'mon out! I think you're missing the point, seriously. I won't debate technical points on this build. The same two guys did all that and they are my trusted friends whether I approve of their solutions or not.Quote:
Originally Posted by ericspecullaas
Will you make a Regal Coupe for swap for the 'bird? You don't have to paint it but it has to be faster! Thanks hoss.Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyDoggs
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk
I think that was my other problem, I was laying down the clear with the panels off the car on a work bench standing over them.
I do know that I was about 8 inches away from the panels, I might need to get closer to them with it reduced as well, since I remember once hearing that one of the causes of orange peel is too much distance from the object.
At any rate, man you guys do some great work there, I always admire good body work since I of course suck at it.
So keep trying until you unsuck at it. Eight inches is WAY too far. Clearcoat droplets need to smash against the panel, not roll in like fog. Move the gun fast, keep it closer more like 3-4", and overlap strokes evenly at least 50% (meaning point center of fan at edge of last pass). On horizontal panels, so wet its just short of puddling is good (if good airflow is present for flash-drying). Clear needs to be pulverized when it hits the panel, rather than be laid down gently. Like primer. Its thicker than you think.
Remembered the article I saw the other day which reflected my sentiments on engine covers and relates to today's chitchat.... I like the LS in the bottom pic! http://www.hotrod.com/news/1509-lets...ff-the-engine/
oh. And...
Our customer wanted an LS7 with functional shaker scoop on the TA, along with the RS frame. Making it possible is not something every shop can do, just like last year's Coyote in a 41. As the intake arrangement sits, its plan A and we haven't had to abort but are not without the rest of the alphabet full of alternatives. A fancy TIG job on an elbow with a cone and false shaker would do for most guys but our hero has a truly epic vision of what to drive. We aim to please.
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk
Yeah I was afraid I was too far away. Meh all part of the fun of learning, I need to hit up the paint supply place to get some sanding discs and some more paint.
Keep in mind I have no idea how the shaker hood worked in the older cars as ... I'm just a smidge too young to have worked on them.
What's functional about this scoop if the filter is way up front? Will a duct come off the intake and grab air from the scoop instead of the underhood?
Damnit..now I'm gonna google it
Ok.. I totally knew I was right.. Be interesting to see how it hooks to the intake.
The OE shakers were closed off at the back, at least later ones were. People perforated the intake area at the rear with a drill and also put holes in the air cleaner lid outside the filter to make theirs functional. The duct piece may be visible in a pic posted earlier. You bolt scoop base to fuel rail, put silicone sleeve on TB then jam duct on and screw to big front piece then the arrow goes on. Filter is still up in the air but a cone no worky.
its never to late to learn bill.Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37