Thread: How many people still use Dex Coolant

I am of the opinion that if you can keep everything sealed up and topped off, you are probably okay for the most part.

But as I have stated earlier, Dex Cools sensitivity to air makes me to not run it because the cooling system is not one of those things you give a lot of thought to in the grand scheme of automotive maintenance. Furthermore, how long after developing a leak in something like the LIM, will it be before you notice? And all that time Dex is being exposed to air and potentially turning to garbage in your engine.

If not for the oil analysis it may have been a really long time before I knew about it as I was not loosing coolant in any significant amount that. The safe thing to do in my opinion and based on my experience is to just flush it.

I will add also, that Dex Cools chemistry does not show up on oil analysis the same either. I could tell based on my reports and just from experience in reading them that there was a coolant leak, but it wasnt until I switched to the green coolant that it clearly showed up in the normal way on the oil analysis report.

The point is that there are things that make Dex Cool suspect and things about its chemistry that may further aggravate diagnosing an issue.

I remember their was a thread going about buying the coolent filter, i ran a search but could not locate it... so i did a internet search and found this company out of california.... looks pretty good but i know it isn't the one you guys were talking about before.... check it out and let me know what ya think, cause i definately wnat to get a coolent filter....
Gano Auto Coolant Filter Company

in an update i did find the tefba filter site which is the ones that were spoke of here if i recall correctly.... which do you think would be best of these two types....
http://www.tefba.com/

Tefba is the one I use, but I didnt pay $65 for it, but I would if I had to do it all over again.

Ive explored making them on my own and ran into some roadblocks with that. It wasnt until I ran across a plastic welding system lately that I began to give this some more thought as Im sure I could do it for a good bit cheaper than that.

I was poised to buy the inventory from the only person selling them in the US at the time that was getting out of the business and thought I had good interest in the filter but then it all dried up when the rubber met the road.

The problem with the first link you posted is that it is an in-line filter and if it ever trapped enough stuff that it clogged up you would block coolant flow. Which is the beauty of the Tefba filter. You can not only clean it without loosing coolant, if it does clog up in the filter screen, the coolant still has a way to circulate.

Originally Posted by SyntheticShield

Tefba is the one I use, but I didnt pay $65 for it, but I would if I had to do it all over again.

Ive explored making them on my own and ran into some roadblocks with that. It wasnt until I ran across a plastic welding system lately that I began to give this some more thought as Im sure I could do it for a good bit cheaper than that.

I was poised to buy the inventory from the only person selling them in the US at the time that was getting out of the business and thought I had good interest in the filter but then it all dried up when the rubber met the road.

The problem with the first link you posted is that it is an in-line filter and if it ever trapped enough stuff that it clogged up you would block coolant flow. Which is the beauty of the Tefba filter. You can not only clean it without loosing coolant, if it does clog up in the filter screen, the coolant still has a way to circulate.

yea the more i look at the two the more i like the tefba, it seems to be a more sturdy application....so yea i'll pay the 65,(unless someone knows where to get one cheaper) either way i think it's worth it....
for ordering they requiring hose size, is that inner or outer??(inner i'm sure, right?) do you remember which was yours cause mines probably the same, save me the trouble of pulling the hose to measure....
thanks

I believe it was 1.250". Double check, but Im pretty sure thats what it was.

Originally Posted by Sabrewings

Point is that plenty cars are out there running Dexcool and will never have that problem. So how can it be to blame?

Then GM needs to buy me better gaskets to use or not make it a requirement on the warranty.

If air is the problem then when do they plan on vacuum sealing the coolant overflow bottle because DexCool is definitely going to come into contact with air there and there's not a damn thing I can do about it. Terrible design for a crap product.

Mine has almost 100K, has had Dex since it rolled off the line, i have owned nothing but fords so i have grown fond of green, i have seen the prestone yellow and my plan for the weekend is to grab a bottle of the rad flush, drain the dex, flush her out and fil with yellow, also how many bottles would i need for my 97 gt? As for Dex Cool being the root of all evil, i have to say its pretty messed up of GM to use a product that is known to do as stated to the most important part of our cars, the cooling system. You can make the argument of yeah well the system should be closed, no issues, no air no problem, but common sence, you design an engine with faulty gaskets, there will be air, second Nothing except the CVT Transmissions that i have seen atleast are a real closed system. Did they really think that no air what so ever would Ever come in contact with the Dex? Bottom line is this, it works for you great, but i will be damned even if it hasent had an issue, allow a fluid such as that be in my car.

Hi all,

I recently picked-up an '07 GP n/a 3800 III.

1. The newer GP's definitely come with Dex Cool. It says that on my overflow cap and in the owner's manual.

2. Iron Indian mentioned the 5yr/100,000 power train warranty. I think that a concern if switching from the coolant the manual says to use.

I only recently became aware of the Dex Cool issue on this great forum. I admit, now I'm concerned. But I wonder if this issue pertains to the '07 GPs? On one of the linked litigation sites, the settlement pertains to:

Dex Cool Litigation Website

GROUP B VEHICLES

Model years 1995-2004

Equipped with 3.8-liter V6 engine (internal GM engine designation RPO L36).

So I'm wondering if '07 is safe or just wasn't around in time for this settlement? Could there have been a slight re-design between '04 and '07 to correct any problem?

Originally Posted by JEFFSGTP

you dont have to worry about the warranty...if they deny any claim based on not running dexcool they have to prove that what you replaced it with is specifically what caused the failure....Prestone all makes all models will work fine and not void the warranty...if you want to make sure email prestone and ask them....I am sure they will tell you the same thing

Thanks.

My owner's manual definitely states that using anything other than Dex Cool would void the warranty:

Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion.... Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

But I think you are correct in getting around the Dex Cool. Also, the reference to "(silicate-free) coolant" seems to open the coolant to options other than specifically DEX COOL?

I went to carmax.com and viewed the engine bay photos between the '03 and '07. It was inconclusive, but it appeared that the radiator cap may be a little higher on the '07.

'03 Engine Pic



'07 Engine Pic



My '07 radiator cap doesn't look to be below anything. But it's not on top of the radiator in the place I'm familiar with on past engines.

The '04 looks same as '07; maybe '04 got in the settlement because it was around when litigation began? Any damage to '04's and above?

Regardless, any coolant that sensitive to air is defective, IMO.

BTW, haven't yet taken off my radiator cap to look-see. I'm afraid to....

are there any other updates to this debate? I own a 04 comp g gtp, and have noticed some sludge around the radiator cap and some in the reservoir container. I flushed the system in the fall when I first noticed it, but did not know about the controversy, so re-added the dexcool. I have only put 3,000 miles since this flush, and don't drive the car in the winter. I do start it up twice a month and run it for approx. 10-15 min. I am still getting some resudue on the radiator cap. I assume that the first flush was not enough? I will flush it agian this spring, and will not go back to dexcool. I am under the impresion that adding the old green is not ok because of the silicone. I also read in this forum that the extended life antifreez is also not good. What is this prestone yellow stuff you talk about? Can anyone please tell me the best solution other than keeping dexcool in my car? Will more flushes get rid of all the sludge (hopefuly not allot) that remains in the system. I have looked for the Gm"12346500 heavy duty flush and can not find. I did get ahold of AS100 heavy duty cleaner though. Will one more flush with this completely clean the system?

What do you guys think about the Amsoil Propylene Glycol coolant? it looks like great stuff

I dont have it in the GP yet, will use that when I put everything back together. So I have no experience with it in the GP. I did run it in my last vehicle and never had any issues from using it.

The down side to Propylene Glycol is that it tends to have some volatility in the pricing and can be expensive to use up front. But it lasts way way longer so its ultimately cheaper to use over the life of the coolant.

The Amsoil coolant, at least from my experience from my last vehicle, is worth the price. Its good for what 7years/500,000 miles or something along those lines Im anxious to put it in the Grand Prix.

Now, I do believe, from my reading of it, that it takes a bit more concentration of it to achieve the same temperature protection as ethylene glycol. Where the typical coolant will only need 50/50 for say 20 below zero, Propylene Glycol will require like 60/40 (dont quote me, its been a while since I looked at the specifics.

Our coolant system I believe holds around 12 quarts, give or take a little. So you will need at least two gallons of Amsoil Coolant to do the job. I would also HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend you do as complete of a flush as possible and drain as much of the coolant from the system as possible up to and including pulling the lower radiator hose, front knock sensor and so on, rear one too if you can get to it.

I say this for two reasons. One, Im anal and just do things that way, two there is no point in spending the money for a coolant like Amsoil just to pour it in with any old Dex Cool, etc. They will mix and work together but why go through all that trouble and not have all that old stuff out as much as possible?

Woohooo Amsoil has coolant! You know im on it!

LOL. Excellent. They've had coolant for a number of years now, its just one of those products that they are not normally associated with, but its been around for quite some time and if it lasts for 5years or 500,000 miles its well worth the price to me. Though I didnt quite push it 5years or 500,000 miles in my last vehicle, still, not having to mess with it or worry it would turn into brown goo then clog my system was a nice benefit.