well at least you'll learn...I still want to know how you break a rod in half and not damage the cylinder walls.
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well at least you'll learn...I still want to know how you break a rod in half and not damage the cylinder walls.
Or at least the rod. You said it broke at the base. The base of the Crank or the base of the piston?
I'd get everything cleaned and fluxed. To make certain you don't have any future problems. If your going to be using the same block that is.
nah flux that =p lol my neighbor also is a master tech and is amazed at how clean of a break it was so thats good lol
does your neighbor a master-tech at never-ever land or something, changing hovering devices on magic carpets?
Sry but he doesn't sound like a master tech to me, it sounds like some mickey mouse ****. If you don't get the block completely torn down and fluxed, machined etc. etc and instead u just replace the rod and call it good, and you have absolutely no problems, and runs well. I will eat my own words.
ok we willl c bro ha
ok guys you all are right hard to say it but you all are right after we yanked the piston out yeah lets just say you all are right....... =[ i got 6 people that work and deal with this crap searching for me so maybe ill have some luck find a short block and build her up again. mark my words she will run again! cough bio your right cough. this blows nuts
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i knew it. Get a low mileage L36/26, they can be had cheap now.
what is the difference ? and will it increase / lower my power and will it be a direct bolt on with all my other goodies?
36 26 whats the difference also?
the L36/26 is a higher compression gp/gs/ss/etc 3800
Between the two differences? none. It would be easier to find a l26 block with low mileage. If u do a h/c setup you need to remember you will have to get all supporting mods to run it properly, just like if you were going to do a top-swap.
i just want to get a cheap shortblock bolt my heads and other junk on and call it DONE i haven o money to mod =[
an L67/32 block costs almost twice as much as the L36/26. Ive seen L26's with something retarded like 30k going for $400, and it was a complete motor, there was a post on clubgp. For the money ull save, u can easily get the basic supporting mods to run a high compression setup
hell ive even seen a perfectly good working L36 long block with 120k going for $50 in a f/s thread...
pontiackid is selling an 03 L67 shortblock for $150, in the f/s section. Thats a steal, you should inquire...
he says he blew it in the FS thread?? i jsut sent him a PM
if youre looking for cheap and a higher compression motor that wont feel like a dog at part throttle then go for an l36 block.
are you heads messed up? nothing else scuffed besides the cylinder walls?
I just spent twenty minutes catching up on this thread. haha.
Shivvy buzz Joe, Glad to see the progress that's been made already.
Hopefully as everyone else has said, you'll find this shiv as cheap as can be. haha
The whole "student/need car repairs" thing blows nuts.
I'll be checking in to show some support!
thanks benner man also nice sig picture. but yeah man theres almost no shot ill have the car up and running by school starts i start the 26th but then again who knows maybe it will be =] next weekend my dads buddy thats be helping us is getting a engine hoist from his work and were gonna yank the puppy out only thing left to do he said was yank the torque coverter bolts out and the flywheel bolts and the bolts that holds the trans n engine together and we will be home free he thinks maybe about another hour and shes out. i just hope we locate a cheap but decent smalll block soon what sucks the most out of this entire deal is my dad has to buy the block gaskets etc... cuz im broke thats the main thing im sad,pissed about because he shouldnt have to. but i guess thats why parents are there to help out there kids in need. so its true? everyone is saying get a GT block a l32 or w.e and the car will have more power huh? or should i just go for a l67 like i have now and call it a day.
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