Originally Posted by BillBoost37
They say not to use the balancer bolt to reinstall the balancer. I think that's because with the balancer completely off, the balancer bolt only catches one, maybe two threads and there's a high probability of stripping the crank threads. All that just to say, when I did the S10 balancer I bought a longer M16 bolt from the hardware store to pull the balancer well on to the crank before switching over to the stock balancer bolt. Probably not recommended, but it works (so far).
oddly I was able to find a right combo of parts in the balancer removal kit to do the trick. I think it was the long rod and long threaded piece.
There's a couple different puller kits. The ones specific to the LS engines have that 3rd longer rod you speak of. The one I "borrowed" was labeled as a Chrysler balancer puller. The only difference being, it doesn't have the 3rd longer rod. Just the two shorties. The LS balancer puller isn't available at the O'reilly or Autozone near me so I improvised. Worked great though.
You would think, with the popularity of GM's gen3 engine, that would be the balancer puller kit that they'd stock... Shrug.
No major milestones today. Just more cleaning. Hit the balancer with a coat of satin while it was off. That will likely be the only painted piece on the engine.
Part of the reason I don't mind all the time I spend cleaning is, it gives me a chance to think... As I was cleaning, I thought to myself, I still need to figure out what I'm going to do about a rear VSS. After a little Googling, I found you can buy a 40 tooth tone ring for a 700r4/60e output shaft.
Amazon.com: ACDelco 24202711 GM Original Equipment Automatic Transmission Vehicle Speed Reluctor Wheel: Automotive
That, plus a threaded in VSS would be perfect. I can drill and tap a hole!
Amazon.com: Standard Motor Products SC168 Speed Sensor: Automotive
Just need to figure out where to put it all... It has to go before the T-case on the trans output. Otherwise, if I'm in 4-low my shift points will be jacked. My mechanical speedo will always be right because that's cable driven on the T-case output. So I got to looking at the trans output shaft and the T-case adapter. Long story short, there is no room for a tone ring and VSS there. Shoot. I guess I'll have to put it in the T-case looking at that output shaft and just deal with any weirdness if/when I'm in 4-low...
Then I thought some more. How did the Yukon manage shift points when it was in 4-low? Something must tell the PCM the truck is in 4-low. Sure enough, circuit 1694, pin 16 on the red connector is the "4 Wheel Drive Signal Switch Low". Sweet! Now how do I make that work? Thinking out loud... There's a light that comes on in the IPC of the K10 when you're in 4-low. I just need to tie into that circuit to feed the PCM. Probably need to step it down to 5v, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there. At least I have a working theory now.
