Thread: Southeast WI 01 GT

Originally Posted by theaceofspades

I forgot about this thread holy update time batman

Thanks for following. Finished up the trans work a while back. Changed out the lifters. New LIM gaskets. Ported out the coolant passage inside that little side cover on the LIM. Polished up the inside of the LIM a bit and ground down the "fin" that deflects the air from the supercharger at the bottom of the LIM. Made it a little sharper rather than a dull hump. I'll try to get some pics up later today.

Digitized from my thumbs to your screen by my Tab3

Thanks for the support guys. Feels good to have a group of people on here that know me and what I am about. Anyways, yeah, it has been pretty crazy at work. Kids are back in school now so time to start crankin away on the Silver Bullet

Originally Posted by Bio248

it's what most of us old school guys did.

i used a couple coins and some RTV. you can weld them shut if you want them to be legit, too.

Resurrecting this because I'm having issues finding someone to do my welding.... What kind of RTV should I use? The Permatex Ultra Copper?

Digitized from my thumbs to your screen by my Tab3

Got my friend to weld the piece from the egr so I can block the egr port in the LIM. That is painted and drying. He also welded the egr port in the SD header. Its a little rough looking but solid and it was free so I'm not complaining....

Got the exhaust mocked up, just figuring out the dipstick routing and getting my band clamps situated.

Painted the valve covers. I did a "thin blue line" on the front to honor my brotherhood. It has to be touched up and clear coated but here is a sample..

Modeled after this,

Also painted the supercharger since the body of it and the snout were two diff. colors/finishes....

Just about ready to drop it in. I'll bolt the rest of the knick knacks on once its in. Just need to cut back the exhaust to accomidate the new and get some help to guide it in. Couple more pics...

The dip stick wont fit between the crossover and the header. Tried it many different ways. I'll take another look tomorrow but that was the only way i could get it. I'll look at that clamp too. If i change it i'll have to re-do the copper rtv i put in it but i just tried to get it in a position where i could still access the bolts now and in the future. U r saying rotate it counter clockwise if i am sitting at the rear of the engine?

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

looking at it again, and thinking how mine are. down would be better. make the bolt flange face down, (turn it just a bit)

i got my rear header on with the dip stick in its hole. so re look that over. i did have to bend it a bit to keep it of the crossover pipe.

Idk if it is a re-design on the SD headers or what, but the trans dipstick tube will not physically fit between the header and the crossover. There is not enough room. Doesnt matter if I bend it or not, and I did try threading the header on over the tube initially. That did not work either. If I'm going to take off that rear clamp, and yes, i mean take it off bc I'll have to clean off the RTV and re-do it...I'll take another look at that tube. I'm 99% sure that was the only way I could get it.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

ill get a pic of mine, same headers.

some cars years iirc the dip stick is different. mine was bolted in place when the rear header went in.

I'd appreciate it. I sat and looked at it today. Only way I could get it between the header and crossover, is if I totally cut off that egr piece and then put a good bend in the Trans tube.

Originally Posted by Bio248

get the 100% bendy lokar one and be done with it.

Unless you have other info, I contacted Lokar and described my application and they said they don't make a flexible trans dipstick that will work with the 4T65E transmission....so boo to that. Looked like a good suggestion though.

Originally Posted by Bio248

really? i swear there are people that have it.

Idk, you know how customer service goes too tho. I could have just had a rep that was going "by the book", where there is actually one that will work just not that's listed in their spec books. Anyone out there that knows of a part number or something, shout it out...