2000 GTP: Still Alive! New Trans?

Had a little change of plans, but it'll make the install a bit easier. I ended up just making another rail to go from one fuse to the other. I figure a foot of 1\0 AWG should be able to hand whatever that battery want's to dish out. I think it came out pretty clean, here's some pics.
90* rail I made:
http://i.imgur.com/PA5CZLV.jpg
Installed:
http://i.imgur.com/48P1XxU.jpg
Oh look more trimming for the 1\0 AWG:
http://i.imgur.com/XNH9eMD.jpg
With battery:
http://i.imgur.com/I37l5bn.jpg
Other rail installed:
http://i.imgur.com/mBp8U0y.jpg
Basically done for now:
http://i.imgur.com/tvthoIw.jpg
Cutting I had to do to the fuse covers:
http://i.imgur.com/yGwG5vG.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ona1HLk.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/xbVUhMc.jpg

See it would have been a mess trying to get 2 1/0 on that terminal. I didn't know you had to spin it that far to get it to line up correctly coming out of the box. Good on the crop job too. Lol! Looking great as always.

Jeff

Welp, ended up taking the laptop back and swapping it out for a different one. This new one is basically the same thing internally, 4GB DDR3, 500 GB 5400 RPM HDD, it does have the A8 CPU whereas the other laptop had the A6, and it also has the R5 graphics as opposed to the R4 graphics. It's also just a little smaller with a 15.6" screen and the original had a 17.3". It's touchscreen though. Cliffnotes is it's a little more responsive than the other one with a 1.7" smaller screen, but it's touchscreen. I have it all reformatted back to Windows 7 and I swear this thing is a lot faster that the other one. I think there was something wrong internally with the one I returned though because it'd lock up a lot. Started right out of the box. Touchscreen is pretty awesome too, I must say. Less than an inch thick and 5.67 pounds, lol.
http://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c04773898

I also emailed the guy about the AVT box, but he's out of the office until tomorrow so that'll get paid for then, I guess.

...And my luck strikes again! Another XB35 ballast bites the dust.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Booba5185

http://i.imgur.com/tvthoIw.jpg

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Nice. :th_thumbsup-wink:

Thanks man.

Replacement ballast is the on the way, in the mean time night driving is at a minimum. It'll need to be driven tonight, but only 1 mile of neighborhood streets. On a brighter note, I just paid for the AVT box so things will get interesting very quickly...

Looks like the relay harness is bad too. Yay TRS. How do they get such a good reputation?

The same way ZZP does?


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I've seriously had zero issues with my trs harness but I outsourced my ballasts. And got kensun.


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Sweet junction block / fuse arrangement! A piece of heat shrink could cover the bars if you wanted insulation there. So is this foreign language (to me) you're speaking mean headlight part troubles again? Dang and double dang. Theres got to be a better way!

edit: remembered you have something in mind for insulation already, d'oh.

What lead you to find the harness as bad. What happened with the ballast.
I had to double tap my driver light tonight after reading yours went south.

Last.time I went through 3 before switching to Densos.
No problems there but I wanted 50 watts again.
When the new XB ballast came along I bit.
I bought a used ballasts in case but didnt think of getting a spare ignitor.

Last night both headlights died on my wife while I was at work. Due to previous problems with one light staying on she knew where the fuse was for the relay harness, she checked the fuse and it was good. This morning I started troubleshooting, and nothing helped except for reseating the relay harness's plug (at the relay box). When I did that, both lights would work, but one would fade in, fade out, flicker, then turn off. I called TRS and they swore up and down it was the ballast. I swapped it all around and the problem did follow the ballast. Also during my testing (during the musical ballasts and reassembly) the relay behaved exactly as they should. I mounted the relay box in a different location just to help keep it from the elements, and called it good (with only one light, replacement ballast is enroute). I went to work, called the wife on my break to check up on the lights and she said that the passenger side wouldn't turn off and she had to pull the fuse (driver side is without ballast). I called her again later on in my day after she had gotten home and she said everything behaved like it should, turning on and off as usual. I'm thinking there is a sticky relay in there somewhere.

Called TRS and a new relay box is on it's way. That makes 4 packages coming this week, lol. It's like Christmas (taxes) again, well for 2 of them at least.

Headlight fail for wife is where to draw the line. At least she was cool and knew something to try. My relay aversion stems from sticky relay syndrome. Cold weather would come and I couldn't kill the 455. That also sucks. Threw that relay as far as I could and wired it GM style, never looked back. Thermal dynamics are a b!tch.

This is the third relay I've ever had fail on me, my truck's fuel pump relay stuck once so it got replaced, I have a relay setup on the truck to keep the radio on until the doors are opened and it stuck on once, and now this. It can't very well rip this TRS relay box apart, it's solid epoxy once you take the covers off. I don't hear or feel any clicks when they turn on\off so I'm not sure if there's a mechanical relay in there or not.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by spazzz

What lead you to find the harness as bad. What happened with the ballast.
I had to double tap my driver light tonight after reading yours went south.

Last.time I went through 3 before switching to Densos.
No problems there but I wanted 50 watts again.
When the new XB ballast came along I bit.
I bought a used ballasts in case but didnt think of getting a spare ignitor.

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Not to be off topic but do you run 50s in mh1? Any difference from 35?


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Damn, now I'm afraid to install my TRS headlight harness.

I still run my old Beamers ballasts' and harness' with no issues what so ever.

Well the relay harness has the potential to cause both of thee ballast failures. We all know how sensitive ballasts are to voltage fluctuations, and if this relay box has been having problems, it's possible is wasn't providing stable voltage and led to these failures. I need to look back and see which side's ballast died the first time.

This relay harness has always had a weird quirk, when the lights turn off, the driver side always turned off first, then the passenger a half second later.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by theaceofspades

Not to be off topic but do you run 50s in mh1? Any difference from 35?


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D2S 3.0 and a huge difference.
My relay harness over 2 1/2 years only refused to fire a headlight 3 times. But that still bothers me.

I've come to the conclusion that during their warranty period I'll play their game, but once the period is up I'll build a harness myself. Waytek probably has something premade. I need to hunt around and see what decently priced OEM ballasts there are.