Thread: 2000 GTP: Still Alive! New Trans?

So back to the fender. You guys see any real reason to spray under coating on the back side? I mean there's a fender liner there so rocks and such won't hit it...I'll do a little towards the bottom by the side skirt for protection, but I think that'll probably be it. I'll do Peel N Seal on the wheel well liner whenever I get around to getting another roll, and at that point I can stick a small square on the backside of the fender to help kill vibrations, but I don't see the point for covering it with sound deadener.

I wouldn't undercoat any of it, just spray paint where the finish is damaged. You have the right idea. A strip of sound deadener on the backside of that fender liner is what I'd like to try, but on the fender itself nah. Well a little never hurts, some high end cars have it there I reckon (backside fender). The fuzzy wind blocker inside the back of the fender going to the A-pillar is fairly critical, it could be improved on possibly.

I'll worry about that when I have it on. I think I'm gonna have to wetsand it with some 2500 grit to get it looking good. I started to polish it a bit and some of the scratches are coming off, but not all of them. I need to find some damned touch up paint for it. I picked up some stuff from Oreillys and it says it's my code but it's a different color white. I don't get it.

White is actually technically the hardest color to exactly match. Because the amount of tints in it are so small. Did you apply clear to the touch up stuff? That can darken slightly. Before spending much time on the fender paint revival, you might want to hold the jy fend up there and see how bad the mismatch is if any. If car or fender have been repainted, all bets about match are off. That white color code could have half a dozen variant formulas. Even with paint mixing equipment, you're not likely to get a decent butt-match on most whites, so "blending" of adjacent panels comes into play. Whites normally have to be mixed in larger quantity because the amounts of other colors in them are so small. Many formulas only go down to quart size due to this. This is why I don't mind black, its MUCH more forgiving. Got any paint around that you could tint your touch up color with? If you can show me the mismatch I'd be better equipped to make a suggestion. Can you detect a repaint on the fender, or door thats gonna be next to it?

I have actually been to several paint manufacturers like Sherwin Williams and PPG. We sold them several checkweighers for weighing different size containers of paint from pints to gallons and even 5 gallon pails (different machines obviously) and they were telling me the same thing. They actually had to change the target weight based on the specific gravity of a lot. After they were setup to run they would have to get a sample take it to QA and have them give them the target weight. On a 1 gallon pail the target weight would vary more than 10 grams from one lot to another. Now a lot of people may say that why would you weigh a product that is a volume measurement in weight, but the answer is always "you got a better idea".

Jeff

Originally Posted by Booba5185

Today goofy guy told me this punk kid at work said he'd outrun me in his 1978 F150 with a 300\NP435 with 31s. I might just have to prove him wrong...

Spank him! Heck, I'd spank him in my GT. LOL

I've thought about it, but I don't think I'll make a point to race him. It's a small town and I don't really wanna be associated with him, lol. Here's the touch up I tried before:


And the only dent. I have no idea if I'll be able to get rid of this one...thoughts?

That dent I'm 90% certain will need paint after fix but show it to a paintless dent repair guy, they could try hot glue. Or make a hole, thru which it could be pushed out with a tool. Thats almost if not the... worst spot for a dent. I'd use a stud gun and hammer, filler, white the spot and clear the roof side from front to where its skinny at the back glass. Then polish the soft edge I'd put there.

Snag some Toyota Super White touch up, Its gotta be closer than that!

You have Car Medic in your area? If so I could get a hold of my buddy and have him call in a favor for you. He owns the franchise out here. Dents on radiuses are more difficult but I've seen him make them look near perfect.

I don't think I do, if I did it'd be up in Springfield. Let me go look...

Well ****, nothing within 3 or 4 hours of me, lol.

Don't know where you are but there are 8 locations in MO. You must be in the sticks sheesh. Gonna be cheaper to probably hammer fill and repaint it. Paint less dent goes around 65+ a panel.

Trouble is it has the metal pushed down where it becomes overly obvious due to the contrasting black trim at that edge. If you ever have headliner down or B-pillar interior trim panel off, you might find a way in for a tool from behind so it could be pushed back out. Some PDR guys do mobile, but mostly for whole hail jobs $.

I've eyewitnessed some amazing results though, with the hot glue system they use. It ain't craft type stuff. If you can find a PDR place and send them a good pic, that might get you a confirmation one way or the other. At least you'd have a pro opinion. Theres also some guys who do fancy touch-up work and dye-ing, upholstery repair, etc out of a van usually at dealers new or used. Dye Team and Dr. Vinyl are a couple locals like that. Finding one who paints might be tough, esp in da styx.

Because I know you're wondering... a home rattle can job might do... with the right stuff and coaching. Personally, since family, if its on the passenger side I'd leave it. Don't you know if you fix everything, a semi will miraculously leave the road and run over it parked? lol

Stick a relay over it..and boom no more visible dent!


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I watched a bodyman knock out a dent like that with a 2X4 on the edge (horizontal in this case towards the middle of the car) and giving it a wack with a hammer. Granted he was a Body guy but it popped out like majic.

Jeff

I wish I could use witch-craft like that. I'd go the other way and when I hit the 2x4 it's break every window on the car, chip a piston, and I'd loose 4th gear.

I'm closer to AR than I am to anything in MO. I'm an hour South east of Springfield, and an hour east (ish) of Branson. Seemed like everything for Car Medic is up north. I wouldn't mind the drive, but I'd want to make sure it was getting fixed. I've been wanting to meet up with some guys in KC for awhile now...

I thought about trying the whole heat gun and canned air trick, since it's such a small dent. It can't get worse, right?

I gotta get some pictures of this fender tonight when i get off work and see if I should go straight to wet sanding. I tried Ultimate compound and it took a lot off, but not all of it. I dunno if there is another compound I should try before wet sanding or just jump in with some 2500 grit...

Lol, that would be some luck!

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

Theres also some guys who do fancy touch-up work and dye-ing, upholstery repair, etc out of a van usually at dealers new or used. Dye Team and Dr. Vinyl are a couple locals like that. Finding one who paints might be tough, esp in da styx.

That's actually what I do for a living 12 years and counting. Though we don't do exterior work. Just automotive and furniture.

If you want me to check with my friend I could send him that pic and get his guess on outcome. He's been doing it for a long time and has probably seen about everything. He let me try it out one day. Its definitely an art form. You have to release the tension from around the center before you can work on pushing up the middle. If done right, and there is no definitely sharp crease, it can be done without breaking the paint.

Originally Posted by REDCOMPG

Stick a relay over it..and boom no more visible dent!

dingdingdingding! We have a winner!

****************

Wood blocks are like gold bars at many a body shop. Losing 4th gear lmao boobs. Put your booba in there and stare at a bucket of relays while letting your imagination run wild. You'll pop it out! Seriously, theres a lot of tension in that itty bitty dent. Bad spot for em. Lots of hail jobs get roof skins or PDR but on the roof sides, conventional means. I still say hot glue first, thats the rule of thumb.

I gotta see this salvage fender finish, and you gotta lay it up there and eyeball the color, man. I know yer chompin at the bit to get that fender on the car, but lend an ear for one more idea and see if it applies. If the bottom of the old fender is rotted but the top is not bad and matches the door, chop rotted section off old, below the rocker molding. Paint edges to protect from rust, rivet together, reinstall mldg, done and with no paint.

Originally Posted by bandook

That's actually what I do for a living 12 years and counting. Though we don't do exterior work. Just automotive and furniture.

Its definitely an art form. , it can be done without breaking the paint.

Cool, see you guys do exist. Good to know. and yes it is. When I ran the Sikkens jobber in Dallas some guys at Love Field were doing custom aircraft interiors and I was eye matching fabrics and oh my what a hassle but what a customer too. I remember they had some clear polyester they poured on tabletops and spread with a spreader then cut it flat and use car clear over it, cut and buffed. Beautiful.

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

dingdingdingding! We have a winner!

****************

Wood blocks are like gold bars at many a body shop. Losing 4th gear lmao boobs. Put your booba in there and stare at a bucket of relays while letting your imagination run wild. You'll pop it out! Seriously, theres a lot of tension in that itty bitty dent. Bad spot for em. Lots of hail jobs get roof skins or PDR but on the roof sides, conventional means. I still say hot glue first, thats the rule of thumb.

I gotta see this salvage fender finish, and you gotta lay it up there and eyeball the color, man. I know yer chompin at the bit to get that fender on the car, but lend an ear for one more idea and see if it applies. If the bottom of the old fender is rotted but the top is not bad and matches the door, chop rotted section off old, below the rocker molding. Paint edges to protect from rust, rivet together, reinstall mldg, done and with no paint.

I'll double check when I am awake during daytime hours, but when I got home with it we did hold it up and there wasn't a difference we saw. We actually had it leaning up against the car and my wife had to move it to go somewhere, and she never noticed a difference, so here's hoping. It is a lot cleaner than it was, so it might be a little more apparent that there is a difference. We'll see.

I was thinking I'd do the heat gun\canned air trick first since it's free. You said they use some kind of special hot glue, right? I have a hot glue gun, but nothing special for it. I'm too much of a perfectionist for this body work BS...