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I found it on craigslist for a steal. I ended up getting the Borlas (with tips), the hood, and a spare climate control head unit (my buttons were worn) for $250 cash.
For the record, the ram air made no difference. In fact I drove to the guys house (over an hour away) with NO hood and it made no difference in my IATs or my coolant temperature.
I think my dad got me into them at a young age out of his laziness. I was doing oil changes when I was 5 (with supervision of course), and rebuilt an old Ford 390 with him when I was 7 (ish). I think I'm following that same line of thinking. The more he learns how to do, the less I have to do, and the more I get to tell him to do. Seems like a win win to me. Of course we eventually need to tackle his truck...my 1989 F150.Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy1973
Haven't really done all that much to the car, but I've been working OT to buy stuff for the car, lol. I've got 2 tablets now, instead of the headrest monitors I'll be using headrest mounts for the tablets, so the kids can watch different movies with headphones on. I also found out that I can control the tablets from the head unit, so if they are doing something I don't like, off it goes. I have an RCA 10 inch for my boy and a Azpen 9 inch for my daughter, both are more than capable of playing movies and most games (via game controller connected to USB).
I made a little junkyard run for a new passenger side front window motor, as mine doesn't want to roll up anymore. I ended up with the wrong motor (even though it came out of a 2001 GP), the bolt pattern doesn't line up. I also got most of the stuff for the passenger side heated seat addition, and some high quality power wire for my sub amp. Today I installed the power wire with a new ANL fuse holder, and cleaned up a lot of the stereo wiring. It came out great, IMO, but my lights still dim pretty bad. More on that later, here's some pics:
Both fuse holders are mounted to the fender well, 100 amp for the Orion amp and 60 amp for the Infinity:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps6f022a0a.jpg
Half Farad cap for the Orion (sub) amp, along with the crossover power. I got the cap for free with no mounts, so I drilled some holes in hose clamps:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psdbc314ba.png
Started work on the passenger side heated seat switch bezel. Once the super glue dries I'll fill it all in with JB weld, sand and paint it tomorrow, and do all the wiring, so it'll be ready for Monday (COLD).
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps27dbbaff.jpg
About my lights dimming. I'm at a loss. I have a CS144 with Ground from the alternator to the battery, battery to the frame, and frame to the transmission. I have the stock charge wire, a charge wire going from the alternator to the fuse box, and from the alternator to the battery. I've got 2 4 AWG wires for the stereo, one for each amp, both with 4 AWG grounds less than 2 feet long, grounded to the strut towers in the rear. Basically everything I have added is 4 AWG, and the power line going to the sub amp has a half farad cap on it. I'm getting the battery tested tomorrow, but if that's not the problem then I gues my sub is just overexerting itself in the box so I'll need to build a proper box (which is on the to do list anyways).
What do you guys think?
you need a xtatic batt cap and throw the capacitor away. search on caraudio.com in the forums or else where specific batteries are made for audio use and rule of thumb is 1 farad for every 1k watts for the amp peak output. so for example a 3000 watt sub amp needs at least a 3k capacitor. or look up the xtatic batt cap or similar.
edit ill bet that sub will clip or the suspension will max out. i doubt you have any issues with the sub more like need a bigger capacitor. and for the love of god please dont use gain as a volume control.......
I set my gains with a multimeter. I'm just shocked I need such as big cap, I'm not pushing that much power. The Infinity is 300w RMS and the orion is around 700w RMS. I truthfully don't like caps this was just a last ditch effort to get rid of the headlights dimming.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psdb979935.jpg
Harness is made, just need to connect it all up to the car. Taking a break for food, but it'l be done shortly.
Nice...work!
All back together, and works GREAT...actually works better than the driver side, lolol. I'm thinking it's been used less, and has better connections so that's why. Interior is dirty, but it's too cold for cleaning, I just wanted to put the car back together, sick of driving around with a hold in the center console.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps90f16cfc.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps48945953.jpg
Might be a little slow for awhile, but who knows what could happen. Early next year will have some cool stuff happening...
Good work.. did you use SEM stuff to get the texture and color correct?
Nope, that's Plastidip believe it or not. Walmart was out of the textured painted I wanted to use, so this is somewhat temporary. It came out a lot better than I expected, so I might actually leave it...if it holds up to cleaning and such.
On the plus side, I gave a buddy a ride this morning he turned it on and next time he got in the car he says "Jesus Christ, it's hot now. Did I sit in a puddle?" lol.
Finally swapped my seat belt latches out on the GXP seats. The 04+ seat belt buckle is a wider shape than the 97-03 so the seat belt is a *****. Now I have the 97-03 latches so the seat belts work normal again. I also pulled the back seats and removed some of the extra insulation I put in awhile ago. The sub was a LOT louder with the back seat down so I took the extra layers out, and removed the plug in the stock insulation leading to the trunk. BIG difference. I'm happy. It was quite a bit, so I'm not surprised.
Then I took the center console out to disconnect my hard wired Performance Shift, to see if I could get the Performance shift to work. No dice, I still have no Performance Shift. The PCM is originally from a 2000 GT, so I wonder if it just doesn't have Performance shift? It has Bill's tune and a GTP tune on it now.
the pcm was flashed with a gtp file. so its got perf shift. maybe theres a fuse for that button? other then that i dont know. very odd.
maybe pop the other pcm back in, see if it then works or not.
I probably will tomorrow, it's cold and been a long day. I can check the fuse thing inside so I'll do that too, lol. I just finished getting everything wrapped up. While I had the seats out my wife vacuum the car out, and I promptly got it dirty again, lol. When I reinstalled the rear seat the remote wire for the amps was pinched, shorted and blew the transistor inside the head unit, so the amps were on all the time. Yay. I just ran the remote wire to the ACC for the time being. Here's some pics...I really love this LED lighting, lol. No Flash:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps00b30ec2.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps808727c4.jpg
And all the extra insulation I took out of the rear, keep in mind this all stuff I added, the stock stuff is there. Minus what I cut off for the wider hole from the GXP, but you get the idea:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps984c03cb.jpg
I'm shipping off my PCM to have Reptile tune it tomorrow. I like the tune I have now and all, but I can't get Performance shift to work, and I still get some KR at partial throttle. Scotty is still the man cuz he helped me out a LOT, but it was only to hold me over until I got a real tune. Just ordered this, it get's here next friday...It's going to a very involved install, to say the least. I'm giving myself a few days to get all the kinks worked out:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...1950-EDPB.html
http://images.sonicelectronix.com/im...al1950edpb.jpg
The plan in my head at the moment is to have one of the aux channels turn on the automatic climate control. The have that same channel turn on the heated seats as well, but put a small switch in the glove box to turn them off in the summer. That'll leave me with 2 more channels, which I might use to roll the windows down, and the other to open the sun roof. Hopefully, yes HOPEFULLY I can use the lock trigger to roll all the windows up and close the sun roof at the same time. I have some research and planning to do, but I'm sure I'll be able to pull it off, even without a DEI module.
If you can pull all that off that would be ****ing amazingg. I suck with wiring and its just mind blowing
Pretty sure I have it all figured out, I just need to draw up some schematics. I have the window portion figured out, I just need to tear into my spare climate control module to see what I can do.
Do mine next?
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Sure, buy the parts and come on over, lol. I'd have to do the one touch modules while I'm at it.
I think the viper 5806v is wht I was looking at awhile ago.
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That'll do everything I'm doing no problem. Other than wiring, I just need some relays and diodes. I might be able to get away with transistors instead of relays, but I can steal relays all day long for the JY, lol.
Stock PCM is in the mail on it's way to Reptile! It might take a little longer cuz of the holidays, but I'm off work til the 5th and I'll have my hands full with this remote start stuff for a little while.