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So I looked it up and the alarm has a negative trigger on lock, so I have to use a relay to control the windows\sun-roof. That's fine, I just need 5 diodes. I was explaining it to my wife and ended up drawing up the schematic I needed, lol. I left out the sunroof, but it's all the same thing:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps374289ab.jpg
Now I know who to come to when the time comes for me to buy one and install one to get my windows to roll down slightly and for the sunroof to crack open.
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Except I drew the damn diodes backwards. lol.
The sunroof closing will be the same as this, but you'd need one touch modules to accomplish it too. Opening will be easier because these car's have the auto-open feature. I have a little reading to do in the manual on how the ground works. My truck's alarm is very similar (but older) to this, and I can configure it to turn a ground on when I hit the button on the remote and turn it off when I hit it again, have it only turn on the ground when I hit the button and turn off when I let go (a momentary switch). If this new alarm is like that, then I just need a relay to connect the open feature. If it's not and only have a .380 seconds ground blip, then I guess I'll still hook it up the same way, lol. I just won't be able to open it half way, it crack, then open all the way that's it.
So I realized my truck's alternator has a 49mm pulley on it, so I'm swapping it with the CS144s on the car. Should give me over 100 amps at idle, woohoo. I need to get a few spacer washers tomorrow from the parts store, but other than that it'll be a direct swap. Hopefully my lights won't dim anymore. Monday I'm going up to Springfield to go junkyarding with my dad and to make sure all the electronics of the remote start is worked out, then the alarm gets here Tuesday. Install might be done by Christmas, who knows.
You did the big three didn't you
That and then some. I have a charge wire going from the alternator to the battery and from the alternator to the fuse box, then grounds from the battery to the frame, battery to the alternator case, and from the frame to the transmission.
I was thinking about doing the big 3 cause my stuff dims and it's annoying. Also considered zzps voltage booster back in the day. But that's shady I feel likeQuote:
Originally Posted by Booba5185
It is, voltage does make your lights dim, but only when the alternator can't sustain that voltage (amperage). The voltage booster over-volts a lot of stuff, my EBTCM fried from it, my LEDs fried from it, a couple other little things did too.
New pulley is on, had to put 2 washers under the pulley to make it line up, but all is well. My amps are hard wired to the accessory wire so they're on whenever the car is running (long story, but my fault), and with the car running, the alternator tester showed 55 amps. I'm assuming this is on top of the rest of the load on the car, which I'm happy with. Under the same conditions, it tested at 45 amps before so it's a 22% increase. That said, my lights still dim under full load on the stereo. I'm still eventually going to upgrade the alternator further, but a new sub box is first. I'm pumping 700+ WRMS into this sub, ti should be rocking my world, and it's not really. Anyways, pics:
New pulley:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psafedb8e6.jpg
Compared to the old pulley, 20% smaller:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psbe36f646.jpg
Productive day today. I basically got everything I went to Springfield to get and then some, and had a good time with my dad while doing it. My previous bar napkin schematic was wrong, after studying the stock schematic I saw a problem. When in the "off" position, both wires leading to the window motor are grounded. When you hit the switch one of the 2 turns into positive (+12v). This screwed my idea of "injecting" a +12v pulse from a relay to the window motor, because it'd be a dead short to ground. No diode would help this, so I had to come up with something new. The answer was a 5 pin relay. A 5 pin relay has one pin (Pin 30) connected to another pin (Pin 87a) when it's off. When it's energized (on) the one pin (Pin 30) is connected to another pin (Pin 87). Confused? Here's a pretty picture:
http://www.reuk.co.uk/OtherImages/5-...tive-relay.jpg
So the above picture is shown in the "off" position. Pin 30 is connected to 87a. When the relay is "on" (Pins 85\86 receive power\ground), Pin 30 is connected to Pin 87 instead of Pin 87a. This solves my problem because I will have the wire leading to the window motor connected to Pin 30 and the wire coming from the window switch to Pin 87a. That way when the relay is off, business is usual, there is no interruption between the window switch and the window motor. I connect +12V to Pins 87 and 86. Pin 86 will supply power to the relay itself, since the alarm provides a ground. When the alarm provides the ground to the relay to turn it on, the wire leading to the window motor will be cut off from the window switch and connected to +12V, making the window motor turn on. After a pain staking 10 minute seminar, I present yet another bar napkin schematic:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psbafdb70e.jpg
Simple concept, kinda hard to describe over the interwebs. Anyways, I'll need 1 5 pin relay per direction, per window. That results in 8 relays in the driver door, 2 relays for the sun roof, and 2 relays for the climate control/heated seats. From my previous adventures in Ford land (ironically I drive through Fordland, MO on my way to the junkyard...) I knew that Taurus's were great for relay boxes. No fuses, just a box'o'relays. My dad and I were able to put 2 boxes into one, giving me 8 20 amp relays in one box:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psdd995e42.jpg
Closed up, I'll clean it up before install, obviously:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps52cb5d8e.jpg
Then, while this was going on, the remote start came in at home. I ordered it Friday and it's here Monday, that's pretty quick IMO. One thing I didn't know about is the alarm has a 9v battery backup. Here's most everything:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psf9fa4a88.jpg
Here's my spare climate control, all I have to do is solder 2 wires right by the button:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps3dcef21b.jpg
Here's the remote for the alarm, pretty cool little display:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps1a6e80fc.jpg
Just finished the relay box, that was fun. Lots of splicing. Everything tests good with my meter so I put it all together. It looks like a lot, but it's not that bad. It's a +12v, Alarm up signal, Alarm down signal, then a wire leading to every motor (both wires) and every switch (both wires)...
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps22088592.jpg
Not that bad, right?
:th_bowdown: Master.
LOL thanks man. Not much has happened the last few days between Christmas and getting a migraine yesterday. I have the car ripped all apart, and I have 6 wires spiced into the ignition harness. Woohoo. On the plus side, I think I lost about 10 pounds. MY tune also came in yesterday, but I have yet to put it in yet, of course. It's supposed to rain all day so I don't think I'll be working it at all today, I also want to give my body chance to heal.
I also talked to my cousin about building me a sub box, since he owns a local car audio shop. He quoted me $200 for a wooden "rectangle" if you know what I mean, built in about a day. I'm still up in the air on it, I mean materials to me would cost 100-125$ so I'm basically paying him $75 for work and such. Not bad I guess. I've never had a professionally built box before, other than what my dad and I have built. I know I could build this, but I have no time.
Woohoo! Everything works! The climate control turns on with the alarm and everything, first try. The only problem wasn't my fault, lol. For some reason the door trigger wire still had a 200Ohm short to ground when the doors were closed, which was enough to trigger the alarm. No biggie, I ran yet another relay to fix it. Other than that, everything works minus the windows. I wanted to get everything else installed and working like it should before I install that stuff. The sun-roof isn't installed either, but I have it figured out. I wish it were warmer out.
Everything is finally back together and works great! I didn't do the windows, but I ran the wires for everything. I didn't because the passenger side window track needs to be replaced, which requires me to remove the Peel N Seal...which doesn't come off easily at 20*F. I don't mind skipping it for now, It's been below 30*F for 4 days straight now so I'm kinda done with wiring.
Everything went as expected, except for the door trigger issue and the fact that these cars have 3 ignition wires. I had to wire up another 40 amp relay to give the third ignition wire +12v when the remote start was triggered. So without the Windows and Sun roof, I've had to add in 5 relays, not so bad, but the windows and sun roof will be 12 more, haha. 17 total, haha. Almost as bad as my truck. I don't have many pics because it was just basically a rat's nest of wires. It's cleaner now, but it's still a lot of wires, no matter how I arrange them.
For the climate control, I soldered 2 wires to the solder pads I showed you before, the used an old Molex plug from a PC to make it "unpluggable" so I can remove the climate control. Then I ran the 2 wires to Pins 87 and 30 of the relay, +12v to Pin 85, and the alarm's trigger wire to pin 86. When I turn on Aux 3 on my keys the alarm turns the relay on, shorting the 2 wires together that are soldered to the auto switch...which simulates me hitting the auto button and turns on the auto climate control. Boo-ya.
Pictured with the trunk pop relay attached, our trunks are positive triggered so I had to use a relay to convert the alarm's negative trigger to positive trigger:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psd5dd5f01.jpg
Here's the hood switch and siren, the hood switch will kill the remote start if the hood is opened, set off the alarm if it's armed, etc. Basically if any orifice on the car is opened, the alarm goes off:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psb39dcfe0.jpg
It's LOUD. That siren is really freakin loud. I soldered literally every single connection with my 240watt(130 on low) soldering gun or my 35watt iron, depending on the wire gauge. So it should continue to work just like this for a long long time. Woohoo.
Oh yea, I put my Reptile tune in. I've driven a total of a mile, so I can't say I notice a difference though. I do have Performance Shift back though!
Little bit of a frustrating day. I went to start the car with the remote and it said out of range, maybe 15 feet from me. It's had a few spots like that before, so I called the vendor I bought it from, who offered to replace it, but the quickest way to do so was to buy another one and send back the bad stuff. Yay, great customer service.
On top of that, the Memphis amp I just bought off craigslist was bad. The rear channels sound like a helicopter (oscillating), and the fronts had bad alternator whine with other cool noises. The guy I bought it from didn't answer my call, so I get to fix it. My dad repairs amplifiers and such on the side, so we'll be able to fix it. These symptoms are of bad capacitors, so we're starting there. I tore it apart and was confused, to say the least, lol. Here's some pics.
Capacitors on the ground rail leaking a bit, they'll be replaced. This might be the source of the alternator whine, and possibly the oscillating, but more likely just the whine:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psdc785807.jpg
Main power supply circuit, pretty straight forward circuit, easy to work on. I like this amp:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psfd5b844a.jpg
Capacitors on the right in the above picture, you can see one was leaking. Not too bad though, so I was confused. I later found out what happened, see those 10 tiny holes\dimples in circuit board? I think they may have served as drains:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psbd3a2cac.jpg
Nothing to out of the ordinary, not really that bad. Then I took out all the other screws to take the board out and found this underneath. DAMN:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps5d9657fa.jpg
Electrolyte city. Something blew it's load. The case was spotless. Only under the power supply section, this is another pic where I found something else wrong. I short between 2 pins. The screw driver is showing what 2 pins were shorted:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...pse43412fa.jpg
This was doing the shorting, it was stock, but came right off with a poke. BTW this is taken on the case with no cleaning, so nothing was spilled on the amp:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps3ced1e24.jpg
So the plan of attack is to pull all 8 caps, clean the board with vinegar really well to get all the electrolyte crap off, and replace those 8 caps. That SHOULD fix it because these caps being bad would cause these symptoms. Some of them are probably good, but my dad has 8 of them already for me so it's free for me, lol.
can i hire you to do my electronics in my trans am lol. i have to hook my 69mm turbo 750cfm demon blow through carb and hdi distributor all together so i get the right amount spark timing and fuel with the right amount boost
Lol I work all the time as is, but I can help out over the web if needed. I always like a challenge.
New caps are in, and they're a no go. Sound is still there. Further investigation is needed...
get new amp
No reason to, my dad has 90% of what I need to rebuild the entire amp. I haven't even begun to work on it yet.