Your driver side beam should be slightly lower than the passenger side to avoid blinding other drivers. Use the adjusting screw to get it back right.
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Your driver side beam should be slightly lower than the passenger side to avoid blinding other drivers. Use the adjusting screw to get it back right.
O that's my bad. I honestly thought it was other way around.
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I never knew about that either till I was looking at the retro site and wondered why they sell left hand drive and right hand drive projectors.then it all clicked lol
Dang. It all makes since now. U busy tomorrow.
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Just got off that myself this morning. Will u be free for me to bomb bard u with screen shots as I attempt to tune the MAF. This SES light is killing me
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Not a bad idea. But naaa I don't need it lol
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Between here and the FB pics, looks like evrything is coming along nice.
Speaking of Facebook. Some stuff I haven't posted here yet.
Now to answer questions before their asked. Yes that's a total of 1600 CCAs. Yes both are wired up. One battery runs directly to the starter positive and the ground for the same battery runs directly to the engine ground near starter.
Both batteries are hooked together.
The second battery runs to fuse box and ground to strut tower bolt.
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your terminals are crap, re do them. or add some shrink tubes to the ends. open ends where you can see the wire will let the wire get dry wire. kills the wires inside the insulation.
i did the same thing when i ran two batterys in my truck. pretty much ran a pos cable from one to the other. the extra was under the hood, so i grounded it to the engine.
Rgr I'll put some big heat shrink on it. I have plenty. Just got lazy lol
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What kinda eye loops. And yes I'm damn good at soldering...but soldering that big of wires would be a bi*ch and a half
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its easy to do. you need a torch to do it. leave the iron in the tool box lol
this is how i do it, but i dry fit the wires into the eye loop so that the insulation sits inside the loop by a few 1/8's of a inch, then still shrink wrap em.
Well some updates. Redid the battery wiring. Nice neat and no exposed wire anywhere. Thanks Scotty.
Then the newest problem. Smelled and noticed steam coming from under hood and found this.
Can't for the life of me figure out how the headers did such a clean cut. Only would leak when engine was hot and running. The crack is so small u can see it. But I cut the metal line off and replaced with rubber line and moved it a little so it was away from exhaust. This week I'm gonna completely change those coolant lines and reroute them completely hidden
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Yeah, my aluminum bracket was broken...I'll be rerouting them as well. Such a smart plan, GM.
So....today's been a wild day with the car. Started rerouting the heater core coolant lines. Made great progress except it was a pain in the as$ had to take front header off along with the TB. Then the thermostat housing (replacing the thermostat while I'm at it) then got the heater core lines off pretty easily. Now the kicker, after that I noticed where the coolant leak I've had for ever was, the RAD hose. It had a tiny hole in it. So took me two hours to remove that due to how it was positioned. Finally got it off, (but not without making my monthly blood donation to the car). And well now I just gotta go get some parts. O, and the dex cool that was in it was only a year and a half old. But the color brown it was was disturbing. So I'm also taking this time to super flush and clean the cooling system and changine to prestone green coolant.
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