car look real good where ny u from
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car look real good where ny u from
ooo dammm nice im gunna heading that way tuesday to gert my rims lol
no some kidd hadd them on his evolution for two month and want xxr rims so im gunna take them
Got some good news.
Had the Spark Plugs and Wires replaced today and cleaned the Throttle Body.
I have to say is WoW what a difference.
The hesitation is gone and the car pulls much harder even more than when I purchased the car. Also it looks like I am getting at least 4 MPG more than before
The Throttle Body was full of gunk and most of the Spark Plugs seemed all rusted and worn out. Also, the wires not only were worn out and dried up, in the process of removed one of the wires the boot ripped off.
I did not replace the gasket as the original seemed fine and the seal on the Throttle Body is very snug with no leaks.
Look what arrived in the mail
Going to have them installed in two weeks among other maintenance/problem related stuff when I go upstate and drop it off and my families dealership.
Grand Prix fixings for the win
How is the car? I think I saw you make another post stating you were having a ton of issues. You picked a good part to upgrade those elbows are a pain.
Car is okay. Although I plan on getting most of the problems fixed. here is my list.
Immediate things I want to have fixed
- Have the aluminum coolant elbows I purchased installed for preventative maintenance .
- Serpentine belt needs to be replaced
- Power steering needs to be flushed completely or the pump replaced (Changed the pump some time ago and replaced with proper PS fluid twice/checked levels and removed the air but it continues to make whining noises, although quieter than before, the noises are noticeable and irritating especially during turning)
- Ticking noise around 1.5 to 3k RPM but fades when accelerating further. Ticks become louder and sound like clacking/rattling when the car shifts in 4th gear. Once in 4th gear this issue occurs upon acceleration but not enough for the car to downshift around 1.5k RPM. (This has been going on since November and gradually has gotten worse)
- Have my oil changed with synthetic (Has not been changed since last august as I have put on little mileage milage, DIC says 25% left currently)
- Drivers side rear window does not completely close and has a slight opening towards the top collects water vapor and sometimes water during washing or when it rains
- Windshield washer fluid is either clogged or the pump lost juice with my drivers side wiper. The drivers side wiper does not spray fluid only in spurts well but the passenger side wiper is fine (already tried unclogging the fluid line and checked the spray outlet, but still has a poor spray as I think the line might need replacing or it could be the pump)
Other things that will need to be taken care of but later on
- I have two dents that came with the car. One dent is my rear passenger side quarter panel and the other dent is on the the lower portion of my front passenger side door.
- Have the ****ty touch up paint and clearcoat job I did after Hurricane Sandy flung a heavy grit shingle at my car and scratched the front portion of my hood and created a 1 to 2 inch scratch all the way through the metal taken care of. (whether that be through sanding or repainting that portion of the hood)
- Have both of my rear interior lights replaced/repaired. One is broken and the other plastic clip snapped off and won't snap back in despite multiple tries.
- Have my moonroof plastic trim panel replaced as it is hanging and is cracked. (Won't Snap back in already tried numerous times and cracked it even further)
- Replace my passenger side windshield cowl piece as its really deformed and leaves/water is getting in. Currently the running water water is blocked my OEM rubber deflector so it does not get into the interior but the large gaps are creating a more than normal excess water amount which could possibly weaken the rubber deflector gasket and cause it to fall off which cause serious damage to the blower motor and create mold on my brand new cabin air filter. With the cowl I might replace the rubber deflector with the improved plastic one from GM.
http://www.grandprixforums.net/water...-fix-6961.html
Buy that plastic piece and don't worry about water any more.
I would change ur oil life more often. When my DIC says I have 60% oil left I'm at 3000 miles approximately. Given I do a ton of stop and go driving on base.
This is a good idea. But before I do this, on my 2004 Comp G, does my cowl have a similar deflector piece and plastic like shown in this photo? Or are 04+ different?
So far I have no leaks and the rubber seal that usually comes off still is attached fine on my car so far. But my cowl is warped and I think this would be good preventative maintenance.
The ticking is probaley a hole in the resonator or near it. My buddys GP has the same problem as you do. Jack up the car and take a good look at your exhaust. Better then a ticking engine.
Hey ya that ticking might be in the exhaust. Ours made that a few times but went away. Found out later our catalytic converter was bad. Cost us 600$ to fix. BUT later dealer found out it was on warranty so we got refunded the $600. Check to see if its your converter or like the other guy said the resonator. Hope it's not the engine cause that is going to be a B****
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Hopefully its a simple job. I have not gotten any codes from the CAT. It could be a exhaust a resonator issue. I hope its not a defective lifter as those are a pain to get to and the job takes some time. Like I said the tick only occurs under light acceleration, during idle even if I rev the car I get no tick while in Park. The ticks become louder and sound more like clacking under low RPM in 4th gear.
So what makes you think it could be exhaust rather than lifter?
I think the issue is something to not worry about, when the car drops into 4th gear and you are still at a really low rpm, the engine has to work alot harder than it would in 3rd gear. If you drove around town in 3rd gear instead of drive you'd never hear the sound.
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