Offset bushings came in. Tada!
Swapped in some nylocks for peace of mind.
My double D stock is here but I'm going to take it to work and put it on the Bridgeport instead of screwing it up by hand.
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Offset bushings came in. Tada!
Swapped in some nylocks for peace of mind.
My double D stock is here but I'm going to take it to work and put it on the Bridgeport instead of screwing it up by hand.
Not much accomplished just didn't want my thread to become archived so I'm going to update.
Before
After
Realization that I already had a high torque mini starter
Steering shaft installed
Yeah I know, not really post worthy but oh well.
Thanks, it's still a ways out before I get that far though.
Nice, so you relocated the battery to the trunk? or did a wire tuck? I did the same thing on my fox.
I like the clean look too, my old LX which I wish I had kept.
In the trunk, I used double 0 gauge tank cable for my leads LOL.
It's going in the trunk eventually, with a cutoff switch. Want it to be track legal.
New shocks on.
Suspension parts are all installed now with the exception on an ARB. That won't be until I get the other engine in there, way down the road. When the car is running I get to start dialing it all in.
Nice, strange stuff, your not going to use the drag shock?
That is a street/strip shock. Plenty of 8 second mustangs on these shocks. If you meant a coilover setup then no I am not going that route. Wanted to keep the stock floor and gas tank. Being from MI I can't bring myself to cut up a rust free foxbody to go run 10's.
Sorry my old stang friends called the lateral shock a "drag" shock.
When is this car going to be done and running?
Is that the oil line adapter for the turbo?
No idea.
Oil filter adapter.
Everything fits now still pretty tight to the sending unit still. I'm going to hold off on modifying the tube until i get the v band clamps on the headers. The 90* adapter is meant to be setup up so the filter is facing the front of the engine not down like this. I may or may not move it that way. I'm going to go get my driveshaft shortened 1" and rebalanced then I'm going to move the engine back. Then I'll know how much room I'm going to actually have for everything.
Coming along nice.
Ok, so finally getting some interest to work on this thing again. Looks like I may hold off on the turbo for now. I just wanna drive the tank this summer. With that being said if I can't go fast I want to at least sound good. Lol. So I'm looking at some off the shelf cam grinds.
AFM B21: 218*/226* - .542"/.542" - 112* - (1.7 rockers)
AFM N21: 219*/229* - .512"/.512" - 110* - (1.6 rockers)
FR G303: Intake: .498" lift, 226 duration at .050". Exhaust: .510' lift, 228 duration at .050" (1.6 rockers, can't find anything of separation though)
Seeing as I already have 1.7 rockers the lift is identical on the AFM cams (.542") and it comes to .529"/.542" on the G cam.
The Ford Racing cam is about a $100 cheaper than the Anderson cams. I'm not expecting to make more than 260rwhp with this setup so the question remains, which cam should I run?
On a sidenote, ordered my solid trans mount and my drop engine mount so these will be going on soon.
Edit: The N21 comes out to .544" lift w/1.7 rockers.
Looks like you know the answer, I know for sure though anything is better than a B or E letter cam.
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