Thread: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method

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  1. #1 My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    GTX Level Member wstefan20's Avatar
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    Well, I've had several people ask me about this, so I figured I'd finally spill the beans and hopefully this will help someone out.


    First off, I'm sure I'll miss things on the first post so I'll be updating as I go. Also, if you have any modifications or suggestions, please comment and I'll be happy to add/modify things!


    As far as pictures, I'll be going to the junkyard in a few weeks to pull and engine so I'll take detailed pictures then.


    All in all, I've pulled several engines in about than 30 minutes using this method. Before I start though, I unfortunately have to preface that I am in no way responsible for you hurting yourself, others, property, or your firstborn child as most of this method is extremely risky if you don't know what you're doing or don't keep your wits (and fingers) about you.


    See below this list if you just need the transmission


    RED is for those wanting to pull the transmission too


    1. Go to the next door car trunk and grab the spare tire cover (or two) and lay them under the car you want to rip the heart out of
    2. Get under there and use that 10mm ratchet to remove the transmission inspection plate cover
    3. Use a screw driver to "pry" the flywheel and turn the flex plate until you see the first torque converter bolt, from there repeat until you remove all three (18mm)
    4. Right by the cover, use a pick to remove the transmission cooler line clips and simply pull them to remove the lines (careful they will drip)
    5. use a long extension and 13mm on an impact (recommended but not required) on the passenger side to remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the differential housing cover.
    6. easiest way to do this is to climb on top of the engine and use a deep 13mm socket to remove the two remaining bolts to the bracket attaching the engine to the transmission. You won't be able to see them, but you should be able to feel them. Some people prefer doing this through the wheel well, but there's so much in the way, I find it easier to reach from above.
    7. While you're up there, remove the upper radiator hose (or if you don't care or are in a hurry like me, just cut it)
    8. Remove or cut the lower radiator hose
    9. Remove or cut the fuel lines
    10. Remove the coolant overflow bottle (on later models where it's by the belt)
    11. Cut or remove the drive belt (15mm counterclockwise on tensioner if you care)
    12. You can ignore this step and just cut these lines when you pull the engine, but I usually do it this way: using a thin wall deep socket 13mm remove both power steering pump bolts at 12 and 6 o'clock and either pull it up and strap it to the side out of the way, or my favorite, just cut the lines.
    13. Remove the 15mm bolts from the upper engine mounts and remove the dog bones.
    14. If you care about the wire harness, spend the next few minutes unplugging the maf, tps, map, iat, fuel injectors, egr, etc. sensors to remove the wire harness, or as I usually do, Just cut the big bundle of wires coming from the middle of the fans to the engine, and the rear going down to the bank 2 o2 sensor, (for transmission folks, cut the bundle going the transmission stuff too).
    15. This is a tricky step, use the longest extension you can imagine with double swivels on each end with a 18mm socket and carefully thread it from the passenger wheel well to the bellhousing bolt right where the power steering pump was under the exhaust manifold between the engine and transmission (a very bright head-light really helps here) and using a very long breaker bar or if your impact is strong enough, remove this bolt (I usually start it with a breaker and remove quickly with the impact)
    16. Remove the Air box assembly (if you need help with this, stop reading and find something else to do....)
    17. Optional, but it's usually so quick I do it anyhow: Using an extension remove the exhaust crossover pipe using a 13mm deep socket (rear has a cover then the bolts). You can remove the throttle body if you wish, but you really don't have to.
    18. Loosen but don't remove the bell-housing bolts
    19. under the car, using a wrench and ratchet, remove the ground bolt connected from the bellhousing to the starter wire
    20. Remove the two bolts securing the starter to the engine 15mm? and either cut or remove the remaining wires going to it and remove.
    21. remove the upper engine (/transmission mount bolts if you're removing the transmission)
    22. Go to any car and pull the seat belt out as far as it'll go and cut it closest to where it comes out and cut the far end and remove the clip (you'll use these to lift the engine
    23. Tie these around both lift loops in front and rear of engine together in the center for clipping to the lift.
    24. Remove the throttle body cables if the throttle body is still on
    25. If you haven't already, disconnect or cut the evap line
    26. Place the engine lift in place and hook up and put tension on the straps
    27. Oh, if you care about the axles, remove them. I'm not detailing it here because I don't care about them...
    28. Remove the bellhousing bolts we loosened earlier
    29. Using a long breaker bar 18mm loosen the four subframe bolts (on 04+ you have some "extra" brackets on the front)
    30. I cannot stress safety on this step enough!!!! I prefer using an impact with a swivel so I can keep everything out of the way, but remove the rear subframe bolts and then the front. That last one might drop the subframe a foot or so so be careful!
    31. As you've noticed, the subframe is still attached because of the struts. Now CAREFULLY remove the six strut tower bolts and the subframe will drop to the ground, hopefully breaking the cv joint with it.
    32. If you don't care about the transmission, Carefully use something long to "kick" the transmission off the engine.
    33. Gently lower the engine/transmission near the ground and use a pry bar to pry the transmission off the engine (we'll come back for it)
    34. Pull the engine up and out! Sweet success!
    35. wrap another set of "straps" around the transmission and just lift out.


    For those just wanting to pull the transmission, perform steps 1-6, 10-12, last part of 14, 15-21, 22-23 and 26 isn't expressly required, but I recommend it for safety, 27-32 and just drag it out like a greased pig!


    As a note, there is another method that I've used on occasion when I really don't care about any of the accessories, is to essentially do 1-4, 13, 16-21, 29-31, to drop the transmission and engine to the ground, then separate the transmission from the engine on the ground and remove. This method is EXTREMELY dangerous, and I only use it if I can't get access to a lift and need the transmission (engine is too heavy to "slide out" without a LOT of help), but it works so I'm mentioning it!
    Last edited by wstefan20; 01-01-2018 at 08:30 PM.
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