Thread: ac compressor leaking? (pic)

I have a serious leak in my AC system - I fill it and it works fine for a day or two and then stops cooling. Put some dye in it and I believe I followed the whole system under the hood at least, only see some dye on the side of the compressor. Not very much, though. Tried to take a picture, wasn't easy - can see it along the band, and the round thing behind it. Does this seem like the cause of a major leak? I think I got more dye near the low pressure fitting taking it off then I see on the compressor. I see kits on eBay for about $150 for a new compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube. Cheap r134a vacuum pump from harbor freight. This what I'm probably looking at -any kind of leak requires changing everything?

http://www.merlinsoftware.com/filestore/ac.jpg

Thanks for the responses - thought a knock off would be better then a used one, sounds like maybe not. More than I wanted to spend, but probably worth it. So the $5 orifice tube is fine over the $13 ac delco one? Probably want the $7 o-ring set?

Originally Posted by crazyguy03

The delphi compressor comes with the 2 o-rings that you need to attach the line set to the compressor.
The AC delco drier comes with o-rings as well
the orifice tube I bought from advance auto parts and used a code Paid $4.
If your car is a 99 or newer , the orifice tube has a weird crushed plastic end. The new versions sold at the part stores use an actual screen now.
I also picked up a bottle of PAG 150 oil.


You will want to want to empty your compressor oil and the compressor oil in the new unit into 2 measuring cups.
then follow the instructions included with the new compressor. It will tell you how much to add back into the new compressor.

Have everything on the way, can you please clarify this:

You will want to want to empty your compressor oil and the compressor oil in the new unit into 2 measuring cups.
then follow the instructions included with the new compressor.

Are you saying to empty out any oil in the old compressor and any that comes in the new? Do I need to offset the system by what I find in the old one?

Thanks - I hope to install it this Sunday, I'll need to go out of town to have access to an air compressor so I want to make sure I have everything I need and know what I'm doing.

I was looking at the orifice tube today and it's a bit worrying, I can't bleed the brakes and I'm nervous about damaged a brake line just moving it aside. I saw in another thread someone said they used a 26mm crow's foot wrench. I was looking at it and it seems like at least from the front it's tight going through the lines on the abs module, never used a crow's foot but I assume it wobbles a bit. Maybe can do something from the side. I just about had a crescent wrench on it that way, which the handle under the boost. Not sure if I could actually get an torque. Worse comes to worse with my situation being a leaking compressor the tube may be okay? Last two cans I ran through did have leak stop, not sure if that gums stuff up.

One other question, won't get my compressor until tomorrow so this may be clarified but it sounds like you need 525 mineral oil for the o-rings. Some people say just use the pag150 oil, others say it attracts moisture. Only mineral oil I see online in parts stores if just labeled "r12" for doing r134a retrofits. Is 525 mineral oil special or can you just get generic stuff from walmart?

Originally Posted by crazyguy03

You will need a set of hvac gauges , a vacuum pump and way to recharge.

The orifice tube is a must. So is the drier

remove or move out of the way the everything on the driver side of the car under the hood
cruise control, strut tower bar, air intake and box, abs module and brake fluid reservoir

with the car raised , the driver side tire should be low enough to allow you inside the wheel well
Remove 2 10mm nuts and 1 bolt.
Inside remove the 2 15mm nuts on the brake fluid reservoir
this will allow room for the abs module to move enough to access the union on the AC line.

Depending on time, I once removed the line from the car all together. 1 bolt on the fire wall and another union that connects the line to the condensor core. This allowed a lot more room for me to remove the union on the line to access the orifice tube.

A cheap set of picks from harbor freight comes in handy
i used pag150 Are there better oils? Maybe. But this was what i been using so far



also you have to install a new stud on the compressor. Make it hand tight at first. Then find a nut large enough to fit over the stud. Then put the correct size nut ontop of that and tighten all the way down. Then remove both nuts. This will seat the stud.
If you don't seat the stud properly , you will not get a proper seal on the line manifold and it will leak.

This is is a breif of the top of my head posting from my phone how-to
Hope it helps

Thanks - I did order a drier and the tube with compressor. Bought a pump and gauges as well - have another car that will need to be replaced as well so they'll get some more use, and no parts stores had them to lend.

I'll see what I can do with the tube, probably will be fine. Just don't want to kink or break a line while I'm out of town on a sunday and end up stranded

So you used the pag 150 oil on the o-rings instead of mineral oil?

Didn't see anything about the stud before, I may have follow up with you on that when I get the compressor, definitely want to have that ahead of time. Or maybe the instructions will have specs on thread/length/etc?

Got the pump today, can turn it by hand.

A note if anyone stumbles on this thread regarding o-ring oil, I found another post saying using "r12" mineral oil, found some at Napa for half the price GM wants, about the same viscosity 515 vs 525

Now going to do this project tomorrow - another question, how did you take off the compressor. I see official way seems to be taking off pass wheel and fender line, I thought I saw somewhere some did it from the bottom. Would be easier if I could do it that way on ramps

Ok, the aftermath, and a question...

Compressor was a lot of work, figuring out which bolts were better from the top/bottom/finding the right extensions. And a took a while to get it out, keep getting hung up, then it just came right out. New one went right back in. The green o-rings that came with the delco accumulator were skinnier and a little bigger, so I re-used the old ones. I didn't end up changing the tube, was a long day. Decided since the oil came out of the old compressor was clean, and we cut open the old accumulator and it was clean, the bags of moisture absorber were intact. Sound like an ok call?

The big question ... was using manifold gauges to charge it back up, first can went in fine - could see it in the inspection glass. Second can, nothing. Can seemed to be fine, tried another using just the charge hose connected directly to the low port, nothing. Tried using the blue line, nothing. The only thing I couldn't really change was the quick connector to the fill port. Thinking of getting another can and using a cheap included hose. Checking pressure will make sure I don't overfill? I assume only one can made it in. AC was working fine, was a little cooler on the pass side, but I think that's normal when you have a low charge - probably only has 12oz. Any thoughts?