Thread: Knocking problems

just for the record, those headers gave me ZERO problems chris... ZERO

thanks, it makes me feel soooooo much better

new sensor in and i had to do the wires again since the header made it melt. I think i routed it away from the header this time. Still seeing some knock. I had a couple of pulls with 0 knock and then a couple with 2 or 3*. will false kr be give you a couple degrees say at 4500 and then drop to zero for the rest of the pull?


chris

so little update... new MAF sensor and o2 sensor are in. Also checked all plugs and are gaped at .055, i also moved my header clamps so it wouldn't be hitting. On some pulls i'm getting no knock and then a couple pulls there is still some. The upper mounts are poly. Any other ideas where this knock could be coming from? i'm on a 3.5. car runs well and pulls pretty well. Does the IAT sensor position matter that much. its right outside by the plug of the maf sensor.


Thanks,

Chris

try gaping the plugs at 0.50.

no idea on the ait. i put mine back in somewhat of a stock location in my hot air cone set up.

ugh but those rear plugs are such a pita

Originally Posted by chris99gtp

ugh but those rear plugs are such a pita

you got headers now right? back plugs are cake with headers. with my huge ass hands and all them brackets removed its easy to get to em. i dont even rock the engine any more.

yeah thats true. so youre saying gapping to .050 should work? if not any other suggestions?

every car is a bit different, all you can do is play with the gap, see how it feels. and scan for KR as well.

i felt a difference going from 53 to 50, its not like its a big jump, but it made a difference.

o2 wire cant sit on any spark plug wires aswell, will give false readings/ mess it up, just a tip

^^really? i had it wire tied to one wire to help route it around the header...

In other news, i just got another code P0137. low voltage bank 1 sensor 2. yay.

u se these plug wire clips. they are held in place so when laid flat they go to the plug they belong to, left middle right. with the clips i make the wires snug enough to keep them off the pipes on the back, then let the wires come over the top.

this pic is pre headers, but ive ran them the same before hand, still works fine.



i ran my o2 extension down the pass side strut tower to the sub frame, follow the sway bar to the o2 sensor, this is the only way i could see to route it with it getting melted. i made my own extension, added 3 feet of wire to the factory harness.

yep, cant have the wire touching the spark plug cable, ever grab onto one of those cables? trust me you wont hold on log, it hurts lol, so if you can feel it through the cable, same thing for the o2, the voltage would throw it off if its getting extra juice from one of those cables you strapped to

it was a little crispy when i saw the wire. just taped it up for the mean time... So i also just found out that i'm pretty sure the Previous owner of the car had the older style MAF. so anyone have an 01 maf laying around? could this be part of my problem? i'd assume yes

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nobody?

Finally fixed it. 0 Kr on a 3.5. Time to go to a 3.4

o2 sensor/real extension

Haaaa so now I just got 2 more codes. P1133 P0137