Thread: Knocking problems

Is there a safer place them just jammed into the intake

yeah, drill a hole in the rubber coupler or the intake pipe.

I just have the filter on the tb.. That fixed the temp. No reading 127.4. Much more believable

zip tie it to the filter. im not a fan of that wires ran to the inside of the air filter. wires can get messed up like that.

Helped alittle jt my problem. Now seeing around 2.5 most

That 3.4 might just be a little much for just headers, if you threw a 3.5 on you will probably not have anymore KR. You could check all motor mounts, and make sure the DP isnt hitting the sway bar or anything else to verify its not false.

Sent from the Milky Way

Good idea. I'll try and pick up a 3.5. Would I lose a lot of power? And if I have the same amount of knock then I'll look into everything else.

Originally Posted by Bluemagic

When you have kr your losing power, bigger pulley less kr?

Moar power lol

Dittto

Plus the size difference between a 3.5 and 3.4 is so minor. Kr is going to kill your power more.. Then throwing on a slightly larger pulley..

Timing is better than boost anyday

I'm ordering one. Anyone wana buy a 3,4? Lol

Oh and dare I say a 3.6 might need to be on order as well.

Just got codes p1133 and p0137... Front o2?

P1133 is bank 1 sensor 1 that is the front.
All the reading I have done on this code says to just change out the front 02 sensor.
P0137 is bank 1 sensor 2 that is the rear.
A code P0137 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: Faulty o2 sensor Exhaust leak near the rear sensor Plugged catalyst Short to voltage on O2 signal circuit High resistance or open on O2 signal circuit Engine running very rich or lean Engine misfire condition Fuel pressure very high or low - fuel pump or pressure regulator

Originally Posted by Slick2500

P1133 is bank 1 sensor 1 that is the front.
All the reading I have done on this code says to just change out the front 02 sensor.
P0137 is bank 1 sensor 2 that is the rear.
A code P0137 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: Faulty o2 sensor Exhaust leak near the rear sensor Plugged catalyst Short to voltage on O2 signal circuit High resistance or open on O2 signal circuit Engine running very rich or lean Engine misfire condition Fuel pressure very high or low - fuel pump or pressure regulator

for the front o2. we did a homemade extension when installing the headers. i'm thinking that could be a problem?.
I know i have a leak somewhere. thinking where the crossover meets the rear. hopefully thats the problem with the p0137

Greatttt

check your wire connections, if you failed to solder them i bet thats the issue.

When you made the homemade extension did you extend the car harness or the 02 harness? If you extended the 02 sensor harness you messed up the reading on the sensor, something about it using the wires to pull in fresh outside air into the sensor. I'll have to dig it up again.

-Edit-
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1567403080-post12.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1567406771-post18.html

we did not solder. we used butt connectors so that could be the problem? we did it on the o2 sensor harness.

Originally Posted by chris99gtp

we did not solder. we used butt connectors so that could be the problem? we did it on the o2 sensor harness.

Read
HOW AN OXYGEN SENSOR WORKS

The O2 sensor works like a miniature generator and produces its own voltage when it gets hot. Inside the vented cover on the end of the sensor that screws into the exhaust manifold is a zirconium ceramic bulb. The bulb is coated on the outside with a porous layer of platinum. Inside the bulb are two strips of platinum that serve as electrodes or contacts.

The outside of the bulb is exposed to the hot gases in the exhaust while the inside of the bulb is vented internally through the sensor body to the outside atmosphere. Older style oxygen sensors actually have a small hole in the body shell so air can enter the sensor, but newer style O2 sensors "breathe" through their wire connectors and have no vent hole. It is hard to believe, but the tiny amount of space between the insulation and wire provides enough room for air to seep into the sensor (for this reason, grease should never be used on O2 sensor connectors because it can block the flow of air). Venting the sensor through the wires rather than with a hole in the body reduces the risk of dirt or water contamination that could foul the sensor from the inside and cause it to fail.

The difference in oxygen levels between the exhaust and outside air within the sensor causes voltage to flow through the ceramic bulb. The greater the difference, the higher the voltage reading.

An oxygen sensor will typically generate up to about 0.9 volts when the fuel mixture is rich and there is little unburned oxygen in the exhaust. When the mixture is lean, the sensor output voltage will drop down to about 0.2 volts or less. When the air/fuel mixture is balanced or at the equilibrium point of about 14.7 to 1, the sensor will read around .45 volts.