Thread: 2000 gtp idle problem ???!!!

Hey guys haven't posted in awhile because I got rid of my gtp last year and stumbled across another one that I couldn't pass up. Recently I have been having a problem with idle when at a stand still ,idle will jump from 500-1000 borderline stalling . If I'm moving it runs fine ,when I get to a red light or let it sit in park idle bounces . Any ideas ?


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Yeah def checking with that , also maybe IAC ?


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Can't find any vacuum leaks ,I'm stumped


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get some carb spray and spary the vac lines down while its at idle. if the idle jumps up when sprayed at theres your leak area.

the fat vac line off the bumper side of the TB, (the evap line) it likes to break and cause a large vac leak, which is what it seems you have.

if one of those pics was to be a vid its not working right. pics cant helps, but its a pretty clean looking bay.

Ok I looked a little more into it today I scanned it with my Hpt tuner and my MAF showed up as 0hz ,so I proceeded to check the fuses and the #21 ,15amp fuse was blown so I replaced it and scanned again . Now my MAF is showing so I went for a test drive and everything was good until it blew the fuse again 2secs later. Any clue why this MAF fuse keeps blowing ?


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Check the MAF pigtail for any broken or frayed wires ect. It could be shorting.

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check the o2 wires too. that fuse does both maf and upstream o2.

First thing on my list to check in the morning , I will report my findings ! Thanks guys for the info


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Do you think these wires being all bent up could cause it ?


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Those kinks visible in the top pic look as though yes, the wires inside the insulation are potentially damaged and could cause trouble. Checking for continuity with a meter while moving the wires around would confirm that.

go get a solder kit. or make one, if you got a harbor freight near by go there buy the 5 dollar soldering iron, and a box of shrink tubes, they run about 3 bucks.

then hit up radio shack and get some flux core solder another 5 bucks.

those kinked areas is the insulation spit? if you see metal there the wires need to be repaired.

what you want to do is cut the wire at the split. then strip the insulation back till you hit new shiny copper wire on both sides, now solder then back together.

heres a how to solder thread with a vid. anyone can do this, and its the best way to do it for a life time repair.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...ail-replacment

I was hoping the wires would be split somewhere but there aren't any , just kinda kinked , so mAkes the job more involved I guess lol . I'm not sure that being kinked would cause it to pop the fuse do you ? I spread the wires out so they wouldn't touch and it still blew the fuse !


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you look at the o2 wires yet. make sure those are ok too. iirc that fuse is for the maf and o2 sensor. the up stream one that blocks the #6 spark plug some.

That's right u did mention that , I got so focused on that the MAF that I forgot to check those wires ! After work that's my first todo lol


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We'll checked all MAF and o2 wiring and can't find any damaged wires! I don't know where else to look . I didn't want to send it to a shop but I may have too lol this thing is kicking my ass !


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maybe pull the fuse box out check the back side for a burnt spot on the back of it, sniff it to see if it smells like burnt wires.

it maybe worth unwrapping the wire looms some more to look for any other areas for damaged wires.

I unplugged them both to try it and as soon as I turn the ignition the fuse blows


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and if you have a open cone and the pcm is kinda laying there like a lot of us do, check the wires to the pcm for a rubbed through wire. most of the time its near the a/c lines.