Thread: seeing 7*+ of KR with conservative mods... Any suggestions??

So much misinformation.... cold plugs are not going to cause kr. Too hot of plugs can, Too lean of fuel mix can, too much timing can.

Originally Posted by frosty

So much misinformation....

Please do tell

Gotta remember that your plugs show that your cruise fueling is good. Your wide open throttle fueling will not show on the plugs

Not trying to send you on any sort of wild goose chase; I have just been dealing with a similar situation. I explained my situation here: http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...e-Knock-et-al)

I ended up buy a really cheap usb inspection camera on amazon and discovered I had a chipped piston. I would go through all of the other tuning ideas first, but I ended up at my wits end with it.

Good luck.

Rest of tune-up done besides ignition?

Engine/trans mount condition?

Knock sensors in '97's don't normally care as much.

Get rid of the TB spacer. It's crap. Blocks off coolant flow, causing the rear bank to run hotter.

Originally Posted by blueguy

Rest of tune-up done besides ignition?

Engine/trans mount condition?

Oil change and plugs/wires changed out.

All mounts are stock

Originally Posted by blueguy

Get rid of the TB spacer. It's crap. Blocks off coolant flow, causing the rear bank to run hotter.

Really? I was under the impression that coolant was just for the TB to heat up during cold operation... hmm..

Originally Posted by blueguy

Rest of tune-up done besides ignition?

Engine/trans mount condition?

Knock sensors in '97's don't normally care as much.

Get rid of the TB spacer. It's crap. Blocks off coolant flow, causing the rear bank to run hotter.

Too add to this you can run the block if you grind the passage in the LIM to allow coolant to pass through.

Why don't you pull some timing see if your kr goes down?


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If thats so its pointless unless you run a block heater, by the time the coolant is warm enough the crossover will make it toasty.

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Failed mounts can cause false readings.

Check them.

They need replaced, I'll bet you $20 on it.

I think he means the lowers on the trans an motor, the uppers you can flip to reduce the engine rocking back and forth or get solid ones.

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Why I suggested to pull timing...if you pull 5 degrees of timing go wot and still have 7* of kr then it's prob mounts or something of that nature


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Flip the uppers 90* any direction for free.

Then get solid rubber optioned lower mounts for the engine and transmission.

I guess if it's a chipped piston removing timing wouldn't make it stop knocking...I flipped the upper mounts when I installed my headers helped a lot


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Originally Posted by wa04compg

I guess if it's a chipped piston removing timing wouldn't make it stop knocking...I flipped the upper mounts when I installed my headers helped a lot


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Actually, pulling timing did get rid of KR for me; I had to pull quite a bit, but I do WOT pulls without knock during normal driving. When I took it to the track, after a couple runs and the blower was heat soaked, I ended up getting a couple degrees.

Rockauto has them along with solid mounts, I don't know where everyone else gets them tho.

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