seeing 7*+ of KR with conservative mods... Any suggestions??

Bumping this back up. Had a chance to install my wideband this weekend and AFRs at WOT sit at a steady 10.9 - 11.0.. That was good to see since my commanded is 11.0. I put the 180 T-stat back in (had a 160 before). I am going to do a pull tomorrow and see if it is still knocking. I am assuming it will, just hopefully less. Any other pointers would be appreciated! Again, mod list is as follows:

3.5 MPS
180* T-stat
K&N intake
3" Catless DP
TB Spacer
ZZP PLOG
10.5mm wires
AL 104s

Self-tuned using HP Tuners

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Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

Sign up on hp tuner forums, that way people with HPT can actually see your tune and logs.

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You shoud still do this, then post the tune and scan in a thread on HPT and we can view it and whats happening.

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Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

You shoud still do this, then post the tune and scan in a thread on HPT and we can view it and whats happening.

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Ha, sorry, I know I am delinquent on this. I am going to hop on now and sign up. After I take a new log tomorrow or Tuesday, I can post it up and get some discussion going.

registered.. just need to post the updated log with the latest setup within the next day or so

Not trying to send you on any sort of wild goose chase; I have just been dealing with a similar situation. I explained my situation here: http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...e-Knock-et-al)

I ended up buy a really cheap usb inspection camera on amazon and discovered I had a chipped piston. I would go through all of the other tuning ideas first, but I ended up at my wits end with it.

Good luck.

I actually read that write-up you posted the other week and it gave me a scare! I am actually planning on putting some 110 octane race fuel in it soon and seeing if I get any knock at all..

Rest of tune-up done besides ignition?

Engine/trans mount condition?

Knock sensors in '97's don't normally care as much.

Get rid of the TB spacer. It's crap. Blocks off coolant flow, causing the rear bank to run hotter.

Why don't you pull some timing see if your kr goes down?


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Originally Posted by blueguy

Rest of tune-up done besides ignition?

Engine/trans mount condition?

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Oil change and plugs/wires changed out.

All mounts are stock

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Originally Posted by blueguy

Get rid of the TB spacer. It's crap. Blocks off coolant flow, causing the rear bank to run hotter.

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Really? I was under the impression that coolant was just for the TB to heat up during cold operation... hmm..

If thats so its pointless unless you run a block heater, by the time the coolant is warm enough the crossover will make it toasty.

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Failed mounts can cause false readings.

Check them.

They need replaced, I'll bet you $20 on it.

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Originally Posted by blueguy

Failed mounts can cause false readings.

Check them.

They need replaced, I'll bet you $20 on it.

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haha, sounds good. which ones you recommend I change? Front upper motor? any links to a good site? I am thinking about going with the ones from Intense Racing

I think he means the lowers on the trans an motor, the uppers you can flip to reduce the engine rocking back and forth or get solid ones.

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Why I suggested to pull timing...if you pull 5 degrees of timing go wot and still have 7* of kr then it's prob mounts or something of that nature


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Flip the uppers 90* any direction for free.

Then get solid rubber optioned lower mounts for the engine and transmission.

I guess if it's a chipped piston removing timing wouldn't make it stop knocking...I flipped the upper mounts when I installed my headers helped a lot


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Originally Posted by wa04compg

I guess if it's a chipped piston removing timing wouldn't make it stop knocking...I flipped the upper mounts when I installed my headers helped a lot

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agreed. I can pull some timing and see if the KR doesn't change. I am planning on flipping the uppers tomorrow after work.

Where can I find lower mounts for the engine and trans? I see the uppers for sale all over but not the lowers/trans.

Rockauto has them along with solid mounts, I don't know where everyone else gets them tho.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by wa04compg

I guess if it's a chipped piston removing timing wouldn't make it stop knocking...I flipped the upper mounts when I installed my headers helped a lot


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Actually, pulling timing did get rid of KR for me; I had to pull quite a bit, but I do WOT pulls without knock during normal driving. When I took it to the track, after a couple runs and the blower was heat soaked, I ended up getting a couple degrees.

Did you end up getting the motor fixed or just running with the chips?