Thread: Power steering question

What did you do pour it on the filter and install it? It should have mixed with the rest of the tranny fluid and it's not gonna be that thick. especially once it is at operating temp.....which is when you should be adding it if you want to be at the proper full level.

Originally Posted by l67ss

when i cracked it open i when tried to clear it out by blowing through it my ears popped and i saw spots for a min. Tried it on the filter that came with the jy raplacement tranny, was like blowin through a straw=lil resistance.

That's because one was soaked with ATF and the other was new and dry.

Originally Posted by l67ss

Was poured in through dipstick tube, when i sed new i didnt fresh in box i meant it had around 100 miles on it. Niether filter was dry. And fluid was def hot. Not a newb btw

i still say you had an existing problem both times. your shot tranny clogged the filter.

your flat out saying its bad or dont work, means nothing when theres 100's who used it and it works fine. it all depends on how bad your parts are when you tried the magic fix fluid. its not always a win.

when it goes bad it will start out as stiffer to the left, easier to the right, then later it will be like turning a 300 lb wheel.

i drove for a month on a dead rack, its not fun, and really not safe, the wheel is very hard to turn even at speed. it wont move at all if stopped.

I either have a bad rack or pump. And trust me. ****ing sucks driving right now

Haha don't ask me. I don't even know which one mine is

thats the trick. if the rack is leaking, change em both. the pump is cheap.


my car the pump started to whine, and the the steering got hard unless i gave it gas. i changed the pumps, cause will what else would ya do lol and then the rack was dead, it got no power at all.

changed the rack and its back to butter.

put the car on jack stands,(wheels dead straight) remove the front wheels, and the tie rod ends from the knuckle. (lock the wheel, do not move it)

then put a jack under the middle of the rear sub frame, put the jack up to the frame, back the 2 rear sub frame bolts out like 2 inches or so, (18 MM socket) then lower the frame with the jack to the bolt heads, but dont let it hang on the bolts.

with a 11 mm socket and 12 inches of extentions lift the rubber boot on the rack drovers side, and take the bolt that holds the intermediate shaft to the rack out. with a screw driver pry it off the rack.

take the sway bar end links off, the sway bar bushing caps, remove or slide the sway out of the way, ( sway bar is not needed to remove, but it makes more room, its tight)

then from under the driver side take the 2 lines off the rack, 18 mm wrench.

remove the 2 mounting bolts from the rack, pry it out of its mounts, then push it out the driver side wheel well. twisting it helps as it comes out. its a very tight fit.


take your new rack and the old rack and line them up side by side. make the steering knob on the new rack match the old rack.

move the tie rod lock bolts to the same place on the new rack, use a tape measure. this gets the alignment in the ball park. not perfect, it will need an alignment when your done.

reverse to get it back in.

the intermediate shaft, to get that back on you need someone to wiggle the steering wheel back and fourth slowly while you try your best to get it lined back up and on the knob. this can be the hardest damn part of the whole job, its hit or miss how much of a fight your in for.

this shaft slides in and out of its self, telescopic if you will.