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What did you do pour it on the filter and install it? It should have mixed with the rest of the tranny fluid and it's not gonna be that thick. especially once it is at operating temp.....which is when you should be adding it if you want to be at the proper full level.
That's because one was soaked with ATF and the other was new and dry.Quote:
Originally Posted by l67ss
Was poured in through dipstick tube, when i sed new i didnt fresh in box i meant it had around 100 miles on it. Niether filter was dry. And fluid was def hot. Not a newb btw
No fluid under the car this morning. :-)
i still say you had an existing problem both times. your shot tranny clogged the filter.Quote:
Originally Posted by l67ss
your flat out saying its bad or dont work, means nothing when theres 100's who used it and it works fine. it all depends on how bad your parts are when you tried the magic fix fluid. its not always a win.
You can believe what ya want, hell i used to believe in santa clause.
I did not say it wouldnt work, i said in TWO SEPARATE occasion of using TWO DIFFERENT PRODUCTS i had bad results. I was saying buyer beware.
The carb was in good working order with a CLEAR fuel filter and a relirively new jcwhitney tank . If it was crap frim the tank it would have shown up in the filter.
On the trans it had 60k on the rebuild, fr, had just been serviced, the crap that came outta the filter looked and felt just luke red tinted lucas. If it was from being a "shot" tranny, there would have been chunks and burnt fluid, neither was present.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
2 drops of ps fluid under the car this morning. So, it hasn't quite stopped, but, it's significantly better.
I was told it might take a while, so, I'll let you all know later.
Dry as a bone under the car this morning....I think it's working. How long? Who knows........
Replacing the PS rack is not all that bad (should it give out). Drop the back of the subframe - it should take 1/2 a day to replace. Reman units with lifetime warranty are something like $200.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SJAndrew
When it goes completely, the car will still be steerable, just really hard, right?
when it goes bad it will start out as stiffer to the left, easier to the right, then later it will be like turning a 300 lb wheel.
I guess I better tell my son to start pumping iron.......:th_biggrin2:
i drove for a month on a dead rack, its not fun, and really not safe, the wheel is very hard to turn even at speed. it wont move at all if stopped.
It seems to be steering fine right now. Although it's a bit "bumpy" if you know what I mean.
I either have a bad rack or pump. And trust me. ****ing sucks driving right now
I guess I'm going to start looking at replacing it. How can I tell if it's the pump or the rack?
Haha don't ask me. I don't even know which one mine is
thats the trick. if the rack is leaking, change em both. the pump is cheap.
my car the pump started to whine, and the the steering got hard unless i gave it gas. i changed the pumps, cause will what else would ya do lol and then the rack was dead, it got no power at all.
changed the rack and its back to butter.
So, do you have step by step instructions for me?
put the car on jack stands,(wheels dead straight) remove the front wheels, and the tie rod ends from the knuckle. (lock the wheel, do not move it)
then put a jack under the middle of the rear sub frame, put the jack up to the frame, back the 2 rear sub frame bolts out like 2 inches or so, (18 MM socket) then lower the frame with the jack to the bolt heads, but dont let it hang on the bolts.
with a 11 mm socket and 12 inches of extentions lift the rubber boot on the rack drovers side, and take the bolt that holds the intermediate shaft to the rack out. with a screw driver pry it off the rack.
take the sway bar end links off, the sway bar bushing caps, remove or slide the sway out of the way, ( sway bar is not needed to remove, but it makes more room, its tight)
then from under the driver side take the 2 lines off the rack, 18 mm wrench.
remove the 2 mounting bolts from the rack, pry it out of its mounts, then push it out the driver side wheel well. twisting it helps as it comes out. its a very tight fit.
take your new rack and the old rack and line them up side by side. make the steering knob on the new rack match the old rack.
move the tie rod lock bolts to the same place on the new rack, use a tape measure. this gets the alignment in the ball park. not perfect, it will need an alignment when your done.
reverse to get it back in.
the intermediate shaft, to get that back on you need someone to wiggle the steering wheel back and fourth slowly while you try your best to get it lined back up and on the knob. this can be the hardest damn part of the whole job, its hit or miss how much of a fight your in for.
this shaft slides in and out of its self, telescopic if you will.