Seeking advice on rear wheel bearing

**Exile** · 12-11-2013

I'm having a hard time figuring this out. Either because the issue is something else entirely or the issue I'm having is quite rare.
I replaced my driver-rear wheel bearing on my 2001 GTP about 2 months ago because the original one was getting sloppy and affecting alignment. But now I believe this new one is bad, but they refused my request for warranty replacement on the basis that I can not report any humming or clicking, which I can't. Either because it is not making those sounds or my exhaust leak is just covering it up.

Has anyone heard of or had a wheel bearing on their car fail with the symptom of getting excessively hot???? Instead of the typical clicking/humming.

Because I hate guessing and have a infrared temp gun, I took the temps of the rotor hats (rear)/braking surface/calipers. After a 25mile drive with 18mi on the expressway doing 70mph, the Rear-driver rotor read 330 F. The entire rim itself was 80F, and its in the SINGLE digits here in IL. The Pass-rear (otherside) was 110 F, fronts were ~160 F. The caliper was only 80 F, so I don't think it's the brake sticking, plus i don't smell any brake dust or the pads burning.

Looking for any advice / experiences you guys have to offer. Kind of just looking for some validation so I can more or less demand a new bearing under the 12 month warranty. Without looking like an ass once I send back my current (defective?) one.

**Bills1997GTP** · 12-11-2013

did you do it yourself or took it to a shop?
Also if you did it yourself do you remember the brand?

**Exile** · 12-11-2013

I did it myself.
It was a DTA (drive tech america) Premium. Off Amazon. Not the best (ie Timken) but it was half the price and supposedly a 12k/1yr warranty. Not the cheapest one available either, those had plenty bad reviews so I didn't even consider the cheaper ones than this one.
They look identical to the bearings W-body store sells on their site for $90.

**Bills1997GTP** · 12-11-2013

I'm actually pretty sure hubs shouldn't get over 300, that's more than half of what they should run .

Sent from my iPhone

**Bills1997GTP** · 12-11-2013

Why don't you just don't tell them you fixed your exhaust leak and you can hear that it's humming, I'm sure they aren't going to test it. There's no way to really tell a good one from a bad one till it's on a car as far as I know.

Sent from my iPhone

**Exile** · 12-11-2013

Originally Posted by Bills1997GTP

I'm actually pretty sure hubs shouldn't get over 300, that's more than half of what they should run .

Sent from my iPhone

Yea I'm concerned. I definitely won't be driving the car more than 30 miles at a time. If I melt/damage/warp any of my new brake hardware or heat warp my new KYB strut I'm gonna be enraged. I mean I know the rotors can get to several hundred degrees if you track/drag the car, but after only 25 mile drive there's a 200+ degree difference on a REAR brake?

Anyone else care to chime in on this please?

**Exile** · 12-11-2013

Originally Posted by Bills1997GTP

Why don't you just don't tell them you fixed your exhaust leak and you can hear that it's humming, I'm sure they aren't going to test it. There's no way to really tell a good one from a bad one till it's on a car as far as I know.

Sent from my iPhone

I may just do that. They don't know there is an exhaust leak. Hell they didn't even realize this part only fits on my rear end......they told me to get my rack & pinion inspected lolol.
Still I'd like to be reaffirmed if possible before I deal with paying shipping and swapping out more parts and bickering in emails to them.

**sseilmnop** · 12-11-2013

They all look the same but the alloy, heat treat and tolerances are much better on the timken/skf. Don't ever by the cheaper bearing unless you are selling the car and are xxxxx'ing the next buyer.

Amazon won't warranty it? Amazon normally doesn't ask any questions.

**Exile** · 12-11-2013

Originally Posted by sseilmnop

They all look the same but the alloy, heat treat and tolerances are much better on the timken/skf. Don't ever by the cheaper bearing unless you are selling the car and are xxxxx'ing the next buyer.

Amazon won't warranty it? Amazon normally doesn't ask any questions.

Yea I suppose. I figured on the rear end I could save $50 and go with a midrange one. My front bearings are Timken. I contacted the vendor that sold it to me thru Amazon. If they don't give me a replacement for free I'll file an A-Z claim with Amazon.

**sseilmnop** · 12-11-2013

I hear you. I bought used bearings of eBay for the back of mine at 200,000. I don't no if car is going to pass state inspection more than one more year.

**indygrandprix** · 12-11-2013

It could be that the parking break is mis-adjusted and dragging causing the excessive heat. Jack the car up and spin the tire and see if there is any dragging or play in the bearing and also without the car running you should be able to hear clicking or grinding of there is any.

**Scottydoggs** · 12-11-2013

tell who ever your returning it to that its setting off the abs light, and you've had it scanned. it came back to that hub, not much they can say then.

**Exile** · 12-11-2013

Originally Posted by indygrandprix

It could be that the parking break is mis-adjusted and dragging causing the excessive heat. Jack the car up and spin the tire and see if there is any dragging or play in the bearing and also without the car running you should be able to hear clicking or grinding of there is any.

I adjusted the parking brake shoe to its inner most setting a couple weeks ago. The rotor slides on/off just fine; if the shoe was over adjusted I don't think i'd be able to get the rotor on..right? Unless stuff is already heat warped.
There's no vertical play in it or clicking. Definitely doesn't spin effortlessly tho and there's a "rough spot" at a certain point when spinning the wheel.

**indygrandprix** · 12-11-2013

It should spin effortlessly. Whatever is dragging is almost certianly the cause of your excessive heat. If your caliper is cool than that's more than likely not it and you are left with the
wheel bearing itself or the parking break.

I'd do what scotty said to get it returned and try to get your money back and get a better bearing.

**Exile** · 12-11-2013

Alright thanks guys. I'm gonna request a replacement, again. I think a refund is too far gone at this point.

**Exile** · 12-20-2013

BUMP, cause I'm still having issues and completely out of ideas.

New bearing installed. Took it for a 25mi drive ...the rotor read 410F, lower part of strut/knucles was 140F, wheel was 105F and untouchably hot.

Suggestions please!!!!!!!!!

Can I drive the car without issue if i remove the parking brake shoe..to experiment???

**sseilmnop** · 12-20-2013

The caliper has to be dragging in the rotor.

**Scottydoggs** · 12-20-2013

if you want to test drive with out a caliper you'll need to hang it in the clear, then put a block of wood in between the pads so when you hit the brakes it thinks its hitting something.

the car will pull to one side pretty much, or feel off when braking with one off.

**Exile** · 12-20-2013

Originally Posted by sseilmnop

The caliper has to be dragging in the rotor.

Any ideas on things to try in order to fix this (if this is the issue)?
Literally everything is new except the caliper BRACKET. Caliper,pads,rotor,rubber hose, wheel bearing. Caliper has been exchanged once already. 2 bad remans maybe??

**ericspecullaas** · 12-20-2013

this is will it

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

if you want to test drive with out a caliper you'll need to hang it in the clear, then put a block of wood in between the pads so when you hit the brakes it thinks its hitting something.

the car will pull to one side pretty much, or feel off when braking with one off.