Raising engine from below

**310toumad** · 10-15-2016

Need to change oil pan gasket, its my understanding that you need to raise the engine enough to unbolt and remove the u-bracket to get clearance to remove the pan. I don't have a cherry picker so my plan is to lift the engine from below. I've done this before when I changed my lower motor mount, just placed a 2x8 across the tranny/oil pans and that worked well. This time though obviously I can't span the board across both of them, will it be a problem lifting the engine by the trans pan? I'm not concerned about it holding the weight, but the fact that if I lift here this really isn't lifting off the center off gravity so I'm afraid it will only lift one side of the engine up (not the side I need). The write-ups I read describe people lifting the engine up from only the tranny pan but I'm not sure. Don't wanna get started on this, crawl under there only to find I can't raise it high enough by doing that.

**Scottydoggs** · 10-15-2016

You could hang the engine and drop the sub frame and have room to spare for the whole job.

**Explicit_Spade** · 10-15-2016

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

You can lift the engine slightly, remove the u bracket from the engine and then get to the oil pan bolts. It's not a lot of fun with the steel pan. Which is why I swapped to the alumunimununununununum one.

^^^

**idrivejunk** · 10-15-2016

Use a coupon.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html

**310toumad** · 10-15-2016

So in terms of replacing the gasket, I've read using RTV "on both sides" is a good idea. What exactly does "both sides" mean? A bead all the way around on top the in-laid rubber gasket?

**Explicit_Spade** · 10-15-2016

Both sides would be both sides of the gasket. Follow the red line with a thin bead of RTV, then trace around the bolt holes. Don't overdo it though, you don't want RTV getting in the oil.

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**Scottydoggs** · 10-15-2016

easiest way is to rtv the block and the pan. run a bead around each, then with your finger smooth it out so its like a mm thick or so.

put thread sealant on the pan bolts too. clean them of any oil too.

and make sure you take the oil level sensor out the pan before you take the pan off or you will break it. its the last thing to go back on too. or you will break it.

**310toumad** · 10-15-2016

got it, thanks

**310toumad** · 10-16-2016

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

easiest way is to rtv the block and the pan. run a bead around each, then with your finger smooth it out so its like a mm thick or so.

put thread sealant on the pan bolts too. clean them of any oil too.

and make sure you take the oil level sensor out the pan before you take the pan off or you will break it. its the last thing to go back on too. or you will break it.

Just to double check this should be done even for steel pans with gasket correct?

**Explicit_Spade** · 10-16-2016

Yes.

**Scottydoggs** · 10-16-2016

the steel pan will leak most of the time if you dont rtv it.

i also suspect the bolts of leaking too, why i suggest thread sealant on them.

**310toumad** · 10-17-2016

Man this job sucks lol. Halfway thru got the pan off, I have a feel its going to be a pain to re-start the five bolts on the motor mount, mostly the one in the back on top near the transmission. I'm guessing you just have to stick the bolt in the wrench and slide it up there and start it that way, no way my hand will fit.

**Scottydoggs** · 10-17-2016

engine to tranny bracket is in the way i bet. keep at it.

**310toumad** · 10-17-2016

Any tips on how to remove the old gasket, it's still on there pretty good and it's hard to pry around it. If I yank on it enough will it give?

**Scottydoggs** · 10-17-2016

yank on it, theres holes in it you can put your fingers in and pull down. then snake it around the oil pump screen and neck.

**rynoman03** · 10-17-2016

Interesting. My new gasket was firmly attached to the block. I removed the Fbody pan and put a gp pan on. I didn't rtv between the pan and gasket. Just rtv on the gasket to block. It wasn't that way already.

**Scottydoggs** · 10-17-2016

its worth doing, takes nothing for the extra step. my engine had a new gasket installed before i got it, it was leaking, it was installed dry. the rear cover was also showing signs of leaking.

all new engine gaskets and the pan rtv'ed and over a year now 100% leak free. nice and dry under there.

**310toumad** · 10-17-2016

You know what really slows me down? 12 year old gaskets that are fused to the metal. The stupid little oil return tube gasket is impossible to get off all I have is a little gasket scraper. Should I soak it in something?

**Scottydoggs** · 10-17-2016

if its stuck to the tube, use sand paper on a block of wood. fine stuff 150 or finer is fine. then wash it with brake cleaner good. up the tube and any where and sand might end up from the paper.

**310toumad** · 10-17-2016

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

if its stuck to the tube, use sand paper on a block of wood. fine stuff 150 or finer is fine. then wash it with brake cleaner good. up the tube and any where and sand might end up from the paper.

What about the rest of the gasket stuck to the block where the return tube goes? I hesitate to use sand paper on that, there isn't much stuck to it. I got it all off the return tube itself. Would it really be a problem to just leave the little bit stuck to the block considering I'm going to be RTV'ing both the block and the pan?