Just wanted to share my recent experience with replacing the ignition switch on my '97 SE. Before doing so, I had so many problems with the car such as no daytime running lights, no automatic headlights at night, no HVAC blower on speeds 1-4, and only 5 would work sometimes, but cut out often taking the headlights with it. I couldn't find a direct solution anywhere on the internet, but enough symptoms kind of pointed to the switch. Anyway, I just completed the replacement and everything works again like it's supposed to.
For several years now, I had a problem with removing the key after the battery went dead or just during random times until I learned about the secret manual button under the steering column. Well, upon dis-assembly of the steering column covers the steel solenoid core dropped on the floor, preventing me from removing the key. The manual push button did not work until I inserted the steel cylinder back in the solenoid long enough to remove the key. When I felt the solenoid, it was very hot to the touch and I made up my mind right then that I would either get a new solenoid or remove the existing one and not replace it. I chose the latter option, removing the solenoid along with the key present (?) switch (the white connector on the ignition cable). The absence of the key solenoid and key present switch seem to have no effect on the overall operation so I'm happy with my decision.
One final note however, is that GM's decision to use an E4 star socket to mount the ignition switch module caused me to spend days traveling to all corners of Las Vegas looking for the socket, which I finally found at one of the 3 Harbor Freight stores in town. Until I encountered the external torx bolt, I thought only foreign cars did stupid things like that.
If anyone has a multitude of crazy problems like I mentioned above, it might be a good bet that the ignition switch is bad. Good luck.
