Thread: Power Window Question

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  1. #1 Power Window Question 
    SE Level Member Bologna's Avatar
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    Question stated in a simple way: Would it be easier to replace only the window motor or would it be easier to replace the whole assembly?


    My window only rolls up and down sometimes when I push the button. I took the door panel off and took the switch off and put paper clips in the dark blue and brown wire slots and then hooked up 12 volts to it to make sure it wasn't the switch and it still didn't work. So I believe that it's the motor and I was just wondering if I should buy only the motor or would it be really hard to just replace the motor? I plan on going to the local junkyard to pick up the part.

    Thanks,
    Kyle

    Car: 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP 2 door coupe
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  2. #2 Re: Power Window Question 
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    If you're on your original regulator, get a new one.

    I have a '98 with 140k miles and I've replaced 3/4 of mine. All replacements are new with lifetime warranties.
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  3. #3 Re: Power Window Question 
    SE Level Member Bologna's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJAndrew View Post
    If you're on your original regulator, get a new one.

    I have a '98 with 140k miles and I've replaced 3/4 of mine. All replacements are new with lifetime warranties.
    I'm not really sure because I just bought the car last week haha. It's a 97 with 156k miles though.

    Is it harder to just replaced the motor?

    EDIT: Also replacing the whole thing doesn't do much if I'm getting the parts from a junkyard anyways because they will just go bad too and who's to say that they will be in better shape than mine.
    Last edited by Bologna; 10-10-2011 at 04:12 PM.
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  4. #4 Re: Power Window Question 
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    I don't think the JY will allow you to buy the motor separate anyway.

    The regulator failure point is almost always the cable. It will get bound in the pulley and then get trashed.

    Just get a new one...trust me.
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  5. #5 Re: Power Window Question 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    just get the whole new regulator, its only a few bolts to replace it, and you would have to remove it to change the motor on it, and the cables do wear out and jam up.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  6. #6 Re: Power Window Question 
    SE Level Member Bologna's Avatar
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    Alright, I decided to buy new anyways because it is $46 brand new on ebay and $75 used from a junk yard lol.

    Thanks guys
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  7. #7 Re: Power Window Question 
    GTP Level Member SnowDrift's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bologna View Post
    Alright, I decided to buy new anyways because it is $46 brand new on ebay and $75 used from a junk yard lol.

    Thanks guys
    For $46, your new one is also a piece of junk. Sorry to bring the bad news. The $75 part from a junk yard is probably assuming a used OEM part. My cost at the dealer is about $150-ish and it's money well spent. I have a 4 door body.

    Just notice you have a 2 door model - wow, $46? Not a chance.
    Last edited by SnowDrift; 10-12-2011 at 08:48 AM. Reason: Noticed 2 door model
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  8. #8 Re: Power Window Question 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    i had both my gmc trucks door regulators replaced 2 times by the dealer, after the warranty the pass side went out again, the ebay one out lasted the dealer one.

    i had manual windows but the mechanics are all the same. the cable fails, or the plastic rollers fail and eat the cable.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  9. #9 Re: Power Window Question 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    You guy know.. the biggest issue is probably lack of lube and then the ball pulls through the plastic. Bonne guys have made up metal to put in there. I'm thinking I might figure it out for W bodies.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  10. #10 Re: Power Window Question 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    i used to spray everything down best i could with anything wd-40 to silicone spray, then switched to graphite spray for locks, that stuff is slick. and works well.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  11. #11 Re: Power Window Question 
    SE Level Member Bologna's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottydoggs View Post
    i used to spray everything down best i could with anything wd-40 to silicone spray, then switched to graphite spray for locks, that stuff is slick. and works well.

    I've got some silicone spray that I used on my Jeep that worked really well. I plan on lubing it up really good before using it.


    And the junkyard might be better but then again it is used and you can't predict how long it would last.
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  12. #12 Re: Power Window Question 
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    I put one of the cheapie window regulators (from RockAuto) in mine. It lasted about 8 months.

    I've sinced replaced witha Dorman from Checker and it's basically the same as OEM whereas the cheapie had a plastic return pully assembly.

    The cheapo you got from ebay will work, for a little while. When it breaks (it will break), replaced it with a good one.

    The Dorman from Checker has a lifetime warranty.
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  13. #13 Re: Power Window Question 
    SE Level Member Bologna's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJAndrew View Post
    I put one of the cheapie window regulators (from RockAuto) in mine. It lasted about 8 months.

    I've sinced replaced witha Dorman from Checker and it's basically the same as OEM whereas the cheapie had a plastic return pully assembly.

    The cheapo you got from ebay will work, for a little while. When it breaks (it will break), replaced it with a good one.

    The Dorman from Checker has a lifetime warranty.

    Alright, I will keep that in mind. Thanks
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  14. #14 Re: Power Window Question 
    GTP Level Member 1ATony's Avatar
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    We carry a pretty good selection of window regulators for these cars. Here's a link to them on our site if anyone would like to check on pricing.

    Grand Prix Window Regulator

    Tony
    1aauto.com
    SALES 888-844-3393
    Shop Here For: Grand Prix Parts
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  15. #15 Re: Power Window Question 
    GTP Level Member SnowDrift's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    You guy know.. the biggest issue is probably lack of lube and then the ball pulls through the plastic. Bonne guys have made up metal to put in there. I'm thinking I might figure it out for W bodies.
    Let me know if you need help with drawings or getting some pieces made. I can probably help.

    I'm not crazy about the aftermarket ones either, no matter the cost. After comparing the operation of a new OEM part to a +$130 aftermarket part, I'll never buy aftermarket on one of these again.
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