Alright..I'm gonna call it. Let's cut the excess stuff and help the OP only.![]()
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Yeah, everyone forgot to warn him about the razor sharp heat shields...lol
i agree. just pull the dogbones and the brackets if you have to. use a small prybar on the factory plugwires to pry them out if they are really stuck on there.
Thanks for all the advice...but I think im a little confused now![]()
I think I got every thing except a few things......
Is it easier to remove the engine lift mounts as suggested?
The post with the sugestion about putting the bolt through the hole next to the coil. Thats a little fuzzy....other than those questions Im going to do the plugs on saturday. Thanks again
I removed mine when I did my headers and left them off. I have considerably more room to work with now. It also only takes me 10 minutes to change out all 6 plugs.
As said though, the first time is going to be a pain because the original plug wire boots will be stuck to the plugs. Twisting them really hard will help to break the hold they have, and you may need to use a set of pliers for pulling them off as extra leverage.
oh yeah almost forgot.....were is the best place to pry the engine to roll it foward?
the easiest way to pry the engine forward is to get a tire iron on the passenger wheel, put the car in park, crank the lug tight until the whole car rolls forward, and have a friend put the parking brake on for you.
and as far as brackets go, its probably easier to get the plugs out of the rear bank, than to try and get the bolts off the bracket.
Or you can unhook the dog bones and take a ratchet strap to the bracket on the alternator and then to the passenger side cross brace. You don't have to tighten it up a lot, just a little, the engine will move forward quit a bit just like this.
The crackhead way...aka hard as hell and overtorques a lug nut. Not recommended.
The next hardest way.
Easiest of the hard ways.
To further explain the second bolt thing to make sense. See where your passengerside dog bone bracket meets the coil pack bracket (just left of the oil fill cap). There is a second hole further back on that bracket from the two holes that the bolt is through. If you remove the bolts from that position on both dogbone brackets, then pull the motor slightly forward (you can use your hand on the SC snout) then put the passenger side bolt back in...but in the single hole of the bracket that is further back. If this doesn't make sense, I can get some pics/vid tonight for you.
If you want to easily rock the motor forward for backward, undo those bolts at the dogbones and on the driverside dogbone mount on the engine. Follow the mount to the LIM. If you lay a long screwdriver or prybar on that and hook the edge of the lim.. it's cake.
i vote the crackhead way.
This thread confuses me a bit....Why is there a need to rock the engine forward just to change the back three spark plugs? I changed all mine last summer in about an hour in my garage and none of this was necessary at all. I think that this job is being made 1000 times more complicated by the step of rocking the motor forward....
Becuase if you still have the factory brackets and big man arms...you can't get back there too well.
lol, exactly
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