Thread: Very weird engine temperature behavior...

Originally Posted by scottydoggs

when you bleed it, you need to run the car till its hot with the rad cap off, and wait till the t-stat has opened up, open the brass screw, don't remove it, 2 or 3 turns, it will blow bubbles if it has air in it, when a steady stream of coolant comes out shut the screw, then top off the rad, and cap it. oh and put a 195 t-stat in it if you swapped it back to a 180, your not tuned for a 180 and you don't need it.

Exactly. I realized I wouldn't tune for a while, so I have the 195 in there now - this is the one giving me problems.

Also, whenever I try to let it run with the cap off, the coolant comes up too fast and I have to put the cap on to keep it from pouring out. I can try letting some coolant out and doing this, but wouldn't running it above the t-stat temp flush all the air out to the rad? I mean, 10 mins at 210, all the air will blow out and collect in the rad one way or another. Right?

That's what I did and I'm assuming I got all the air out, albeit not the common way. I can see how a pocket could get trapped in the upper rad hose, but I just checked for that and the coolant was right up to the bleed screw.

I agree. The gauge is mostly crap. But in this case, I don't think it's the problem since I can sit in the driveway (with no airflow over the rad) and the temp does what it should - and the fans come on right near where they should, just using the gauge reading.

However, a scan gauge is high atop my priority list.

Any comments on Stant as far as quality?

Today on the way to work it didn't break 180. Now it just warms to 180 and stays there like I have a 180 in there...