That...is a HUGE waste of money...I'll save the $50+ and buy crap oil thank you...because in the end...its still the same stuff.Originally Posted by gtpinsc
|
|
10-09-2009
That...is a HUGE waste of money...I'll save the $50+ and buy crap oil thank you...because in the end...its still the same stuff.
10-09-2009
for the money you can do WAAAY better then royal purple. if i were to spend that much, amsoil or redline would be my choice. and yes, in the end it may be the same, however it takes synthetic oil a HELL of alot longer to get to the end
if your changing your synthetic oil every 3000 miles, PLEASE, send me your used oil!
10-10-2009
Take 2 brand new cars alike, run one with cheap conventional oil and the other with really good synthetic after 100k miles tear down the motor and there will be a difference in wear and tear, sludge build up, etc etc.
Originally Posted by SuperSport
10-10-2009
I know all oils are NOT the same. All of the off the shelf oils don't have any anti friction modifiers anymore because of the EPA. My machinist prefers I use Brad Penn for flat tappet engines and Schaeffers oil in my roller motors.
I run Brad Penn green oil in my GP because I don't have a catalytic converter so the ZDDP can't ruin it.
The fact is royal purple is garbage oil I've seen more scored bearings and spun bearings when people use it. When it gets hot it turns to tar. Its not much of a problem in our cars cause the motors aren't working as hard as my pull truck or race engine. If you ever lugged the motor for a period of time it would cause problems. Its just overrated synthetic with some purple dye in it and the dye is what causes problems I think.
If you don't believe there is any difference in oils buy some good oil and some off the shelf oil put some on your fingers and rub them together. You will feel the difference in film thickness.
10-10-2009
It's used in a lot of the trucks at work. The dye is broken down and dissolved in the first few hundred miles. If the Air Force goes out of their way to use it at the recommendation of the analysis dept (does analysis on all engine oil, including gasoline, diesel, and jet turbine engines), then I will definitely run it in my car.
10-10-2009
x2 thank you for this input.
Originally Posted by SuperSport
10-10-2009
I'm so glad you're still here with us!
10-12-2009
I don't really care what people in a lab say about how good a oil is. I see what happens in a race engine when Royal purple is used.
Your motor looks clean inside so I assume it was treated decent. I'm sure your engine isn't turning 6000-7000 rpm almost every minute of it's life. I don't remember the last time I started my pull truck motor to hook to a sled and go for a Sunday cruise, down by the lake. J/k
Like I said in my first post, it should not cause much of a problem in our cars. I'm afraid it will turn to tar in my truck or my race car so I won't put it in them. I use the oil I order for my race cars in my GP I know its good stuff.
I have four seasons on my BBC and the only thing that I do to it is change valve springs every year put new plugs in and adjust rockers every weekend. I still have 70psi of oil pressure at idle hot so I don't even worry about pulling the pan and checking the bearings. I might pull the pan this winter but I doubt it. Just put new heads and cam in it and put it back on the dyno.
Back on track, as far as the Synthetic VS Regular oil goes I would look for a oil with Moly or ZDDP in it. The only why to find them is in race oils. Damn Government took all the good stuff out of your off the shelf oils.
| « Previous Thread | Next Thread » |
| Tags for this Thread |
| Bookmarks |
Bookmarks |
