Thread: What did you do to your car today? Vol 2.0

Originally Posted by SubwayBrat

If you have a car that has full synthetic in it, it can last 7500 miles. you change the filter at 7500 miles with the oil. So they can go that long.

Thats more like it. Vehicle usage has a LOT to do with extended intervals, as does the engine's design and condition. Infrequently used vehicles, ones that don't get many miles... and especially those feeling age and high mileage already, are the last place a full synthetic belongs, in my opinion.

I waste oil. But my engines stay clean.

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

Thats more like it. Vehicle usage has a LOT to do with extended intervals, as does the engine's design and condition. Infrequently used vehicles, ones that don't get many miles... and especially those feeling age and high mileage already, are the last place a full synthetic belongs, in my opinion.

Exactly. I will never use synthetic in my car. I was just making the point that oil filter have the capacity to go 7500 miles. Not that I will change mine then.

Yep. I put full syn VR-1 in the 455 once because the store counterperson insisted there was no such thing as "dino" VR-1. When he rung up the conventional part number, I didn't argue since the difference was like $2 a qt. The car liked it, but it was a waste. I think synthetic oil got a lot of it's fame when engine builders discovered that it can help you "make a number" on the dyno if you come up 2 HP short of the next hundred or whatever the goal is. Super-slipperyness must come into play at 8,500 RPM, I sure don't have use for that though!

Nah it's just better at extreme temperatures, and can last longer.

I'll be the cheese that stands alone. I've proven it keeps internals cleaner. And switching between dino and syn does a good cleaning up and making leaks as well

my brother went and swapped every last fluid to synthetic fluids. in the last 6 months hes developed what he thinks is the rear crank seal leak on his yukon. he has been running the syn oil for years already now tho.

both rears, t case and tranny, all syn, running just fine for years. but like others you hear about, its got a oil leak now. but most have the leak much quicker. so being his truck had around 25K on it when he swapped maybe why it was ok for so long and the rear seal maybe just a common issue for those trucks.

not really sure. but ill stick with cheap dino oil lol

Changing oil today in the cold yay lol

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Lol yup. The seals harden and the dino oil likes to collect around them A few intervals with syn cleans that up , seal
is still hardend, and it starts to weep right past it.

That was the case with the the Spyder. The cam seals started to weep and so did the seal on the distributor. My last break down of the top end , is night an day from the first year I had it. Almost all the brown staining is gone too.

My ninja I ran the dino oil until about 800 to 1000 miles so the motor could properly break in. The dealer said (ya I know - what do they know) sd using syn for the first 800 miles won't allow the friction needed to seat the rings to the walls.

Well it took forever to get to 800 miles but since then it's a fresh syn oil change every spring regardless of the mileage. Wanna talk about a a waste of money ? It's a 2010 with 3,000 miles do the math lol

I'm trying to source a gen5 top swap


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You need too


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My u-pull has em for $35-45

Originally Posted by CrazyGuy03

My u-pull has em for $35-45

time to cash in then!!!

I know right ?? Stupid hours till 3pm though

Boost gauge is reading significantly off of what the car is recording. And when turned off instead of returning to zero, it's offset to -10.



Boost gauge was installed by previous owner, and no changes have been made under the hood recently, so idk what triggered this.
Advice?

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Can you calibrate it?

I have no idea, I've never messed with it except for when I re-ran the Aeroforce wires a few months back. It's an Auto - Meter "Sport Comp" boost gauge

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Originally Posted by ScottyDoggs

my brother went and swapped every last fluid to synthetic fluids. in the last 6 months hes developed what he thinks is the rear crank seal leak on his yukon. he has been running the syn oil for years already now tho.

both rears, t case and tranny, all syn, running just fine for years. but like others you hear about, its got a oil leak now. but most have the leak much quicker. so being his truck had around 25K on it when he swapped maybe why it was ok for so long and the rear seal maybe just a common issue for those trucks.

not really sure. but ill stick with cheap dino oil lol

Rear mains are a common issue on the ls and its derivatives. Oil has nothing to do with it, it is kind of like the lim gaskets on the 3800, sooner or later it will leak. Most the time they don't leak too bad, like maybe a half a quart to a quart between changes.

You arent suppose to log boost either on the aeroforce, it might be close to the real numbers but mine was always off. Log MAP in/hgs instead because that will take readings directly from the 2 bar map sensor.

Originally Posted by Slick2500

Rear mains are a common issue on the ls and its derivatives. Oil has nothing to do with it, it is kind of like the lim gaskets on the 3800, sooner or later it will leak. Most the time they don't leak too bad, like maybe a half a quart to a quart between changes.

his is hardly hitting the ground. hes anal and knows its wet under there now. i looked it up a while back. the tranny has to be dropped. they got a rear engine cover like the 3800 the seal is in. that cover can also leak.