Thread: Overheated and now won't start

It didn't jump time. Try starting it with starting fluid

If it fires on starting fluid then its a fuel / computer problem. It it does not fire at all its a spark problem. Fun fact our ignition control modual controls spark during cranking.

Any CELs? (Check engine light)

Pull a plug and see if you have spark

Let's start off easy. The chain jumping time would be the first I've ever heard of, and I've heard/seem millions of these cars on forums etc. Secondly, the coils and all under hood connections are weather packed, this means when you drive through rain and puddles, they won't cause issues.

1. Does the engine turn? (If no, search on my name and L36 failure for what happened)
2. Is there fuel at the rail?

As Bill mentioned, everything under the hood is pretty much water sealed and water safe. Possibly your motor seized up, maybe you loss compression do to fried piston rings, im not sure if any coolant entered the block or was able to exscape but maybe it hydro locked. A lot of possibilities but if your car just overheated I dont see that affecting your fuel or much of anything else unless the coolant did affect electrical components.

Depending on how long the car was driven after the car started to overheat, ima bet it a mechanical problem(like the water pump seizing, etc.) possibly preventing the motor to turn over. Also, this over heating issue may have revealed any other problems the motor may have had if any, contributing to the problem.

Im not sure what the issue is but I hope you figure it out. Im not sure if my thoughts are right or wrong but they may help you.
Oh and if or when you correct the problem, make sure the ECT(engine coolant temp sensor), Thermostat,fan,coolant flow and mixture etc. are all functioning properly to prevent future issues. The ECT is one of the most important bc it controls most of your engine cooling components(or at least does most of the leg work providing the engine temp so the other components no when to turn on/off and or to work properly

He says it is trying to turn over.

So that means it is not hydrolocked.

Something else is the issue and I do believe it still has to do with the uim failure. The problem is, he has a massive vacuum leak at this point causing the car not to start.

did you ever get it running?
ever do a compression test? what about a coolant pressure test? how about any testing other then replacing parts?

As the all exhalted guru and telepathic visionary able to read minds through the internet, I have a few questions still.

You said clear out the cylinders. Cleared out of what?

I have a direct area I'm aiming with my questions, don't want to scare you by listing things out w/o getting more direction.

FWIW I've never found a compression test to tell me much on these engines. The one time it did tell me something, it simply confirmed that a piston was missing.

Replace the uim guy.

i hope you weren't trying to crank the engine over like that to much with coolant in the cylinder, thats what would cause the rod knock your gonna have in a thousand miles or less after you do the lim gaskets.

id park the car asap, and then do the lim gaskets and check the upper intake for all the regular warping or cracking. clear that cylinder after you dump the coolant from the engine, ,then do the lim gasket job.

Something has failed which is letting coolant in. Either upper plastic intake, upper intake gasket, or lower intake gasket. I doubt its a headgasket but its possible.