I moved Goldie to the curb and parked Shadow in her spot.
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I moved Goldie to the curb and parked Shadow in her spot.
I say the same thing, but as most use it, we mean mating an aluminum cylinder head to a cast iron block, or an entirely aluminum engine, because you generally don't get issues with smaller aluminum components as far as heat goes, such as the LIM or timing cover. Engines have had aluminum lower intakes since at least the late 70's as far as I know, could be more but I'm too young lol.
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Since the summer of 2010, I've had a Scan Gauge II mounted just behind the steering wheel on that flat spot. I love it. It can read out a ton of stuff from the PCM. It displays 4 things at once. I have KR in the lower right corner, ignition timing in the upper left, LTFT in the lower left, & boost in the upper right. Plus if you're smart, you can program in a bunch of other parameters from other sensors that it can read out.
I have it set on the red color. You can change the color to whatever you want from like 8-10 colors I think. The red looks pretty intense at night. VERY deep in color & it looks nuts. It matches well with all the other red lights & the super bright red tiny LED bulbs I soldered into both sets of door lock & window switches a long while back.
The thing runs about $150-$170 new. I got mine off Amazon a while back. I recently saw a local AutoZone starting to carry them. They come with a 3 year warranty. I contacted them twice & they were willing to look at it for free & send me a replacement but I always ended up figuring out my issue. It would only NOT work in my car those two times so it was a problem with my car, not the Scan Gauge. Think it was the f*ck1ng OBD port on my car. I tried everything & the last thing I did seemed to straighten it out. No problems since. The OBD port has 16 pins. The one that supplies the power I think had a slightly bent pin so the Scan Gauge kept turning off. After f*cking with the connections in & out of the PCM, running temporary new wires, & finally trying the power supply pin on the car's OBD connector, no problems for the last 6 months. F*ckin' he11... Lol
The thing can also read & clear codes, too. I ALWAYS help my friends & family with their car sh1t so I've taken it out & hooked it up to other people's cars plenty of times & then looked up the codes for them & gave them advice.
Modded guys have issues stock normally don't, lol. I'm having an issue right now, but it's not related to my supercharger...I hope, lol.
Replaced the crank position sensor because the engine was almost stalling and rpm's would randomly drop to 0 while driving. Since I did that yesterday no more random drops and no more hesitating and stalling issues, drives much better
Isn't Valvoline full synthetic more expensive than mobil1? I swear it was 4 bucks cheaper for Mobil1
Today I pulled off the road to move the tread from an exploded truck tire off the road seeing as the 3 people in front me of hit it. Bunch of goobers. I also then filled up with 12 gallons of 87 at 3.25 a gal. Just under 40 bucks, would have got it cheaper but i went the wrong way home.
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I usually get valvoline full synthetic from Wal-Mart....it's only 23 bucks.
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Wtf i swear my walmart wants like 27 bucks for it and 24 for mobil1. I usually get conventional for 16, im gonna try the synthetic blend for a few bucks more this time around tho.
Sent from BFE
The Walmart by me has almost every synthetic the same price
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did a engine swap.......on a lawn mover. damn thing just fit too. had to trim the safety cover over the blade pulleys to clear the muffler.
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Put a quart of oil in the van. I haven't checked the oil in about a year. Then did this
full syn oil change and rotated the tires...paid 15 bucks!![]()
Amazing.you worked on your own.car..lol..now just e85, heated seat wire, fuel pump rewire, injector swap, brake pad change, rust fix, fendors, fuel.pump install, gauge pod hook up, and pulley swap.to go.......just a few minor things..oh ya and wash it every now and then
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