Punched the TCS button, rolled down the windows, and floored it from a dead stop. Then I inhaled deeply :)
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Punched the TCS button, rolled down the windows, and floored it from a dead stop. Then I inhaled deeply :)
Changed the rear pads and rotors on a ladies sable. She got quoted 800 at a shop to do it. I charged $140 she was very happy
Removed the side molding getting it ready for body work and paint
Got my suspension all torn apart. Nothing is in the wheel well but a cv axle. Hardest part was getting the lca bolt out that was seized in the bushing.
Click for vid- (yes its weak, and yes I have another trans waiting)
http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/y...psbb4dfb71.jpg
why dont i hear sc whine?
that tranny hates you lol
Flushed the cooling system. Replaced a broken pulley on the supercharger belt. Removed the battery and coolant resevoir. Removed both serpentine belts. Replaced the thermostat. Disconnected the alternator and tensioner to inspect the P/S pump. Checked the fluid level of P/S fluid, found it was not even registering on the dipstick. Decided I won't go back to the shop I've been using unless it's for something I know is wrong.
The only thing they got right was a pulley was broken and that the belts should be replaced, as well as I needed a good coolant flush. They didn't discover the upper coolant elbow was leaking, and that's what they must have thought was the leaking water pump. My car has never overheated, so it's unlikely the water pump was broken. They wanted almost $1600 for radiator, power steering pump, water pump, pulley, belts, thermostat, and coolant flush. I'll need to do the math, but I know I've spent less than $200 for all the parts and fluids I'll replace. I'm probably going to just refill the P/S pump and listen to see if the noise it made when turning goes away. Removing the P/S pump isn't fun, so why bother.
ahhh, its not that bad really. if it takes a hour your were dragging your feet. the p/s pump that is.
No, the coolant flushing is what took forever. P/S pump is currently disconnected except for the two hoses on the bottom. Is it easier to remove them from underneath the car? I can't figure out a good way to turn the P/S pump, unless leaning it forward 90 degrees is the best way. I'll need to remove the fluid currently in there if I do that.
remove the lines from the wheel well, take the tire off. have a pail ready to catch the fluid. remove the alt, then in the pulley of the p/s pump is a hole, in the 12 and 6 o clock areas is a 13mm bolt, remove them lift the pump out.
then you "need" a gm p/s pulley puller to take the pulley off and put it back on the new pump. you can do the free rental at pep boys or auto zone for that puller.
It had a cone with no tube when I got it and I couldn't stand the hiss at idle but it sure made crazy hairdryer sounds wide open. I'm more into glasspack and carb sounds but tires squeal the same in any language. The whine will have to grow on me, I don't care for it.
a pulley drop would change your mind......lol
im with you in the end really. id rather hear good old american V8 muscle.
Yeah I need to pack as much sanity, peace, and quiet as I can into my daily car. Figured I would do the change-up this week so I drove the purple one to work Friday and used the GTP for a saturday cruise instead. They are equally entertaining to drive but one is a whole lot more badass!
Installed SD headers with a local friend, never doing that again smh. Removing everything was pretty much a breeze except accessing the rear Mani bolts but the egr section and now a vacuum leak somewhere got me pissed. Took us basically all day. Glad they are on though.
She got a nice wash and polish today - wax tomorrow. I took a look at the fuse panel and found a 10 amp laying inside, pulled out the book and plugged it into drl. Now my headlights finally turn on automatically. She'll be getting some new halogens soon.