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its called side curtain air bags. and more safety features lol as the years roll on the cars get heavier and heavier due to safety. on a side note if they put a metal knife stick out the steering wheel nobody would go over 5 mph why cuz who wants to kill them selfQuote:
Originally Posted by highoctaneracing
I figured this but wasn't sureQuote:
Originally Posted by ericspecullaas
I'm also debating on using this http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-1057.../dp/B004FW77F0 to see if the MPGs change in any way. I'm only gonna use it once since its pricey.
the reviews seem high too
One last thing lol. Letting your engine warm up for a few minutes helps your MPGs too. Most people start and go and that'll rape your gas.
Will a bigger dp increase mpg, what size is the best for the small pulley?
Headers is bestQuote:
Originally Posted by 94grandprix
99 GTP with 155K miles. I drive mostly state to state and seem to average low to mid 30mpg depending on speed (calculated using odometer and reading from fuel pump, NOT the onboard display). Usually make it a point to fill up before hitting 440 miles / tank (don't want to get stuck between towns).
I'm not sure if this was right or not but I drove approximately 9 miles 1 way and never got over 1600 rpms and it says I was getting almost 35 mpg, could this be right
Sure, but if I reset mine going downhill with my foot off the gas it says I'm getting 99mpg - but that doesn't matter very much.Quote:
Originally Posted by 94grandprix
It's more important to track your mpg over a longer period of time, not resetting it while driving and tracking an individual trip.
That actually doesn't save you any gas. Yes, you will get better gas mileage with the engine hot... but letting your engine idle burns gas without getting you anywhere = 0 mpg. Overall, it's better to "start and go" .... normal driving is the best way to warm up your engine. The car should actually warm up faster during driving.Quote:
Originally Posted by highoctaneracing
Correct :th_laugh-pointup:Quote:
Originally Posted by GTP131
"Keep in mind that more is not always better. You'll just want enough octane booster to stop your KR. Any more than that could hurt performance. There's not as much energy in 94 octane gas as there is in 89 octane. Typically all higher octane gas does is slow down the combustion rate. That's why it's probably best to run what the manufacturer says to run.Quote:
Originally Posted by highoctaneracing
Good Luck Toulene
R+M/2...114
Cost...$2.50/gal
Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
10%...94.2 Octane
20%...96.4 Octane
30%...98.6 Octane
Notes: Common ingredient in Octane Boosters in a can. 12-16 ounces will only raise octane 2-3 *points*, I.e. from 92 to 92.3. Often costs $3-5 for 12-16 ounces, when it can be purchased for less than $3/gal at chemical supply houses or paint stores.
FORMULA 2
Xylene
R+M/2...117
Cost...$2.75/gal
Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
10%...94.5 OctanE
20%...97.0 Octane
30%...99.5 Octane
Notes: Similar to Toulene. 12-16 ounces will only raise octane 2-3 *points*, I.e. from 92 to 92.3. Usually mixed with Toulene and advertised as *race formula*.
MAKE YOUR OWN OCTANE BOOSTER
How to make your own octane booster (this is the basic formula of one of the popular octane booster products). To make eight 16 ounce bottles (128 oz = 1 gal):
100 oz of toulene for octane boost
25 oz of mineral spirits (cleaning agent)
3 oz of transmission fluid (lubricating agent)
This product is advertised as "octane booster with cleaning agent *and* lubricating agent!". Diesel fuel or kerosene can be substituted for mineral spirits and light turbine oil can be substituted for transmission fluid. Color can be added with petroleum dyes."
From the forums here =)
I'm thinking about cutting my cats off and getting the dp put on, what's size do I need though to make it safe for the pulley and would deleting the cats and bigger dp increase mpg?
If your gonna spend the money on a DP I would just get headers once they come back in stock for 200 bucks
Sent from the Milky Way
I thought a dp was just a bigger or fatter pipe, if I got headers would it be best just to upgrade the complete exhaust to a fatter pipes and has anybody did true duals?, what all can I basically take out, what's a resonator?, I live in ga so they don't do emissions anc will the service engine light come on?
No need to touch the rest of the exhaust you probably will never outflow it. The resonator is good to keep because it kills rasp and quiets the car down. A few people have done true duals but, I see no point to unless you wanna be different. Yeah the SES light will probably come on for not having a cat and EGR depending on if you delete it. You can get the codes tuned out if you get a tune tho. Use the search bar at the top of the page, find more info than you will know what to do with.
Sent from the Milky Way
SOOOOOOO outdated. You can't even buy 1 quart of xylene or xylol for less than 6 dollars at just about any hardware store or like a menards.Quote:
Originally Posted by tomtom123
You'd spend triple the amount trying to make it work. I'd rather buy 5 gallons of C16 for like 60 bucks and splash a gallon in with 3-4 gallons of 93.
I'll take the lights out them and yes I'd like to do the egr eventually, I just want to do a few basic mods to take her to the drag strip and have a little fun
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomtom123
This isn't an octane booster. You didn't look at the link did you? The link was for ethanol remover. Also, I do get better mpg< along with many other people, letting the engine warm up for a few mins
I actually did look at the link and thats why I replied. I guess I read it wrong because when it says 'ethanol fuel conditioner' I didn't substitute the word 'conditioner' for 'remover'. Sorry about thatQuote:
Originally Posted by highoctaneracing