Thread: ABS Problems

Car started bucking ABS light came on took it to shop car ran fine no light on when he checked it since then it has come on 4 times but car runs fine and when I shut car off it does not come back on next time I start it one day I drove it 350 miles and it never came back on next day after 4 miles it popped on any ideas? Pedal has felt a bit soft for about two weeks before it happened and it feels soft when it is on but normal fluid is full

This morning kept starting and then stalling any ideas?

1997 Grand Prix 3.8 naturally aspirated I am original owner
300,000, new maf, fuel pump, idle valve, plugs, wires, coil packs, suspension, brakes rotors, and all interior lights leds (trying to think of anything that I can to help) Co worker suggested clogged cat sound possible?

Check for vacuum leaks. Sine yours is a 97 take a look at the vac tree on the throttle body. It may be cracked and leaking.

As far as the ABS light goes, could be a bad wheel sensor causing the light. Mine's on for that reason right now, though my brakes feel fine.

Might try bleeding the brakes all around to see if the pedal feels any different afterrwards. Also check the system for leaks (lines under the car especially).

Thanks for the quick response and the good feedback Here's what we have now. yeah I checked that vacuum tee and anything else I could find last night I got a CanOBD2 from wally world I ran a scan the codes are P0102 low voltage at maf (would putting in a new pigtail fix this?) P0141 O2 sensor that's been bad forever when I get a few extra buck I plan on doing a ubend delete and getting rid of that issue but I doubt that is causing this problem, but here is the big one I think p0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow would that cause this and whats the cheapest easiest way to fix this.

I don't but someone told me if the light stays on it means a serious engine problem I always thought the abs light was just for abs

Originally Posted by Logan541

I don't but someone told me if the light stays on it means a serious engine problem I always thought the abs light was just for abs

sounds like crazy talk to me... ABS = Antilock Braking System Has nothing to do with engin... Although it is part of the traction control system and that can mess with fuel-n-stuff to keep you from spinnin...but if the engin has a problem it will kick on the check engin light... thats what it is there for.

that's what I thought but I grew up and hot rodded in the days of carburetors and no computers just recently got back into it with these newer ones, but Bill Boost told me something once that made a lot of sense our engines are still PUSHROD engines they have not changed that much. I mean I feel I have two or more separate issues

did you scan the ABS system to get the code?

just thatplug under the dash and hit dtc

Yes, the 3800 is a pushrod motor, BUT it has all these electronic gadgets on it that make it more efficient (when running correctly).

The low voltage MAF issue- Clean the MAF and try again. May need replaced.

The O2 sensor issue- replace it. A U-bend delete will not fix this issue. The one you want to replace is in the rear manifold in between cyls. 4 an 6.

EGR- Probably a bad purge valve solenoid or a clogged/broken line. IIRC the purge canister is behind the pass. side wheel liner.

ABS light- Your scanner will probably not read ABS codes. This is where the TechII scan comes in. The light has nothing to do w/ the engine. It is strictly there to tell you about the braking system. If the ABS light were to indicate a serious engine issue then my 00GT would have been dead months ago, lol. I've had mine on for a while now due to a wheel speed sensor, which is most likely also indicating a bad wheel bearing (again ).

Thanks ford man some really good info here i USED TO BE A FORD GUY UNTIL MY 1993 Ford PROBE THAT SWPRE ME OFF FORDS FOR LIFE but I must admit I have lately been eying mustangs

Well changed the evap purge soleniod cleared codes drove for about 250 miles service engine light came back on scanned it now I get a P1441 code bit the P0441 is gone (makes sense) but so is the P0102 which I don't think makes sense I mean I did nothing to fix that one did not touch the MAF anyway now I have a P1441 and a P0141 I know the ox sensor is bad but what to I do about that other code? Evap canister maybe?

Thanks

OK gets weird here did nothing to the car got to work this morning the P1441 is gone and the p0441 is back. But it runs good Maybe delete the whole system and when I get the pCM reprogrammed next year set it to no report? or is it going to start running like crap again

Got my answer

well it died and had to be towed got to shop next morning it ran fine for him since I ha dcleared the codes he could not pull anything, so he drove it some more after awhile it did it to him as well it bucked then died, no codes but he wiggled the wires to the ignition control module it started it stalled three more times on the way to his shop each time he wiggled those wires and it started he changed the ICM and it started been driving it for 3 days now it even seems to have more power and run smother

My thanks to all you guys for trying to help

Logan