Thread: How can I replace control arm bushings?

Should reduce torque steer.

and probably a good idea to replace your sway bar links with some moog ones while you're in there.

They're less than $10 for both sides anyways.

I have done these many times. I actually just did the ones on my moms Buick Century over the weekend. BUY THE WHOLE CONTROL ARM. It is very worth it because you get new ball joints and new bushings and like Matt said above buy the sway bar links too because most of the time they will be rusted or you will strip the bolt and nut getting them back on. The tricks are:

-Take the sway bar end links off first

-You will need a Torx 55 for the front control arm bolt

-You will need a 21 box wrench or socket for the front and rear control arm bolts

-If the inner metal part of the bushing gets stuck to the control arm bolt either cut (Which is almost impossible) or burn the bushing off enough that you can get a vice grips on the inner metal part then spin the bolt loose.

-Before you tighten the control arm bolts the control arm must be a ride height or close. If you have the car on jack stands be careful and jack the control arm up to ride height by jacking it up under the ball joint.

Thnx all and every 1 for a great suggestion and advice, I will certainly follow the procedures like all u guys said. Hopefully I will get it done, the only reason i do not want to buy the whole control bar is because i recently 2 months ago replaced, ball joints, sway bar links, stabilizer bar links and so on, therefore i just dont know if it is very usefull for me to buy the whole new control arm which comes with ball joints or whatever. I don't know what u guys prefer?

Honestly I have a set of Moog ball joints sitting here because of just that reason. But if you want to figure out how to press the in yourself or you can take it someplace and they will do if for cheap then I would do that.

I just did LCA bushings, ball-joints, and swaybar links on my '97. Honestly the bushings are fairly easy in my opinion if you have access to an air hammer and a ball joint press (press in bushing). Soak in penetrant and use air hammer to curl the outside of the bushing's outer sleeve towards the middle and knock it out.. Ball joint rivets were a PITA. $150 is a pretty good price for new ones IMO.

I had one side LCA come out easy, spent more time putting the new one in.

Other side I had to cut the LCA off from the bushing then cut the bushing away with a sawzall (milwakee electric FTW) and then pinch it with vice grips and back the bolt out.

PB Blaster is a good idea as well.

Somehow I did it all wrong and my alignment is fubar'd.

Awesome negative camber and toe out.

I'm rebuilding the stock ones, friend of mine has the tools/press to do it. I bought a set of LCA's for the 98, don't like the greaseless balljoint and the fact my balljoint cups are already dry rotting..

Stock ones I'll know what I have... and will probably only have about $50 into them when they are done.

my delco's have grease-able ball joints.

get ones with greaseable ball joints.

My delco's were $90 a side with greaseable BJ's.

If you can get them out...

On my drivers side i had to cut the LCA off from the bushing, then hack the bushing apart till it was just the inner sleeve then pinch it with vice grips and then back the bolt out.... All because it was seized in there.

Originally Posted by codyAK

^^ cheapest with greasable ball joints would be moogs.

"Master-Pro" from O'reillys are greasable and much cheaper. I have no problem using them on something like this.