Thread: Found Cancer (Rust) on my rear strut towers... Need advice

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  1. #1 Found Cancer (Rust) on my rear strut towers... Need advice 
    GTP Level Member buickman104's Avatar
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    Yesterday I was installing a rubber trunk mat and cutting it down to size. As I pulled off the carpet I notice that my rear struts are showing rust through on both sides.
    Left Strut tower
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/2j7gj67x0j...81043.jpg?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/zgav0zmlm8...81030.jpg?dl=0
    Right Strut Tower
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/4uspq0uf9t...81106.jpg?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/qvmhuio320...81102.jpg?dl=0

    I have a ton of sentimental value with this car. I would like advice on how to proceed with trying to salvage this. The car is pretty rust free elsewhere.

    My thought is to wire wheel off as much of the rust as I can and repaint it with something.
    I am also wondering if it would be okay to wire wheel off the factory weld seam sealer material as there is rust under the seam sealer.

    Any advice on what to do would be greatly appreciated!
    2000 Bronze Metallic GTP
    Power :Gen V, 3.6 pulley, 3 inch down pipe, Power log, FWI,and DHP Power Tuner,
    Handling: Vogtland Springs, GMPP sway bars, STBS, 18" Konig backbone, CTS-V Front brakes and GXP rear brakes
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  2. #2 Re: Found Cancer (Rust) on my rear strut towers... Need advice 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    mine looks just like that one one side, its all fuked up, i took the wheel off and chunks started falling out as i poked at it some. so i put the wheel back on and i pretend its not there. lol

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #3 Re: Found Cancer (Rust) on my rear strut towers... Need advice 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    Find someone that can weld is what I'd do.

    Go in from the bottom and cut that chunk out, clean up the top really well. Then weld in a small plate of metal to give it it's strength back. Use some eastwood or similar rust converter to try to stop further rust and smeeer seam sealer all back over the repair.

    Ideally you'd maybe drill the spot welds out of the strut plate on the bottom, then cut a larger hole and replace the metal. Re-weld the plate in place with new spot welds and coat everything to prevent further rust the best you can.

    I cut out metal on my old car and welded in new plates around the strut plate, it worked for what I wanted to do.

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  4. #4 Re: Found Cancer (Rust) on my rear strut towers... Need advice 
    GrandPrix Junkie idrivejunk's Avatar
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    Here is my current approach to rusty metal and you might have caught yours in time. Yes trim away the bead of sealer with a snap knife or something.

    First let me say that without removing the plate from the tower, you can't reach the heart of the problem. Also it is possible that you may be able to modify the plate so it could bolt into place rather than weld. That would be up to you to figure out but welding is likely to be not very avoidable.

    To address what you have access to, yes start with the wire wheel and finish with some kind of paint. But between those two steps, use an acid based rust dissolver or converter type product. Do multiple applications of wetting, scrubbing with wire wheel and or scuff pad and wiping it off before it dries. How many passes it takes to scrub down to clean metal varies by product. Use gloves. It helps if I throw a bit of blasting media down while I scrub. Maroon scuff pads work great for cleaning beyond wire brush on rough stuff. Anyway, do that as much as you can tolerate then make a big final effort to sand the residue off and clean with water then solvent based cleaner and paint or prime the area with something for bare metal. Epoxy primer is best on the metal but some rattle can etch primer followed with glossy paint should do inside the trunk. You would get best results on the outside using catalyzed body shop type stuff.

    You would be wise to get rid of what rust you can now and perhaps add a rear STB for added rigidity. From the pics it looks like early stages but, and this is important, go first thing and try to poke holes in it with a sharp metal tool. That will help determine the urgency factor. If I were you I would treat what's in the pics real soon then plan to go deeper from the outside when time allows dropping the struts to get in there. Anything you do will be a pain in the neck, access-wise.
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