Thread: run the power cable from battery to trunk - FINISHED!! PICS!

Heres my setup (so far still have several things i'm gonna clean up n trick out!!)
I wish i would have thought about a sub showing through that trunk opening. I just have a small amp exposed =/

The back plate for the cup holder is just held in place with bolts sticking out about 3/8 inch on each side. If you wedge a screw driver (or really small crowbar like i did) you can just pry back a lil n clear the bolt end n take out that panel.
See the small bolts tip at the bottom?
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I don't like exposed amp power wire, so i hid it pretty well
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The fuse n wire hidden behind the bat
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New (well for me anyways) AVIC D3.. Just got it, n waiting for a couple of accs to arrive for it
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The 4Channel membrane swith to control the amps rem (among other things)
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The relatively powerful but small mtx 282 exposed through the rear cupholder/armrest
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N last but not least dual MTX 4500 12's. Please dont comment on how i'm gonna burn the amp. i'm aware of it
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The only problem I see is that you have the fuse in the trunk, I was always was told to have it within a foot of the battery connection for saftey.

yes alway fuse as close to the battery as possible. most recommend within 18 inches.

reason for this is that if something happens and there is a cut or short in the wire, the fuse will blow. the less wire there is between the fuse and the battery. the less chance there is for a fire, sparks, anything of the sort.

i personally would rather have a fire in the engine bay then a fire in the trunk that would lead into the cabin and then the whole car.

if i were you i would relocate it as quick as possible.

r u talkin about my setup? my fuse is right behind the battery (between the bat n fender) with almost less than a foot of cable between them n the engine bay. All i have in the trunk is the amp and 12's, but currently i do have a stereo-to-rca converter becuz the cheap sony explode i had prior to the avic didn't have rca/subs outputs.

Any reason to run the power wire to the bat instead of just running it to the terminal on the fuse block?

[QUOTE=Freebeer187;128936]

what the switch for?

N last but not least dual MTX 4500 12's. Please dont comment on how i'm gonna burn the amp. i'm aware of it
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You should paint the sub grills to match the car

sorry for the retarded response... i just noticed that other guy's setup with the fuse in the trunk. Would be a good idea to stick a cap between that trunk fuse n amp

N yea carl06gt, u actually read my mind. Imma paint the inner grille to match the car, repaint the outside rim like a glitery silver (mainly to cover some scratches), n imma run some red neons around the outside n maybe just white leds n side to brighten up the 12's. Youll see what i mean once i do it and post it

sounds good

Originally Posted by nemesis350

sorry for the retarded response... i just noticed that other guy's setup with the fuse in the trunk. Would be a good idea to stick a cap between that trunk fuse n amp

N yea carl06gt, u actually read my mind. Imma paint the inner grille to match the car, repaint the outside rim like a glitery silver (mainly to cover some scratches), n imma run some red neons around the outside n maybe just white leds n side to brighten up the 12's. Youll see what i mean once i do it and post it

caps are useless and serve no purpose. they are a waste of money. upgrading your big 3 is a million times better then buying a cap. not to mention it cost about 100 dollars less

Originally Posted by WhiteGT

Any reason to run the power wire to the bat instead of just running it to the terminal on the fuse block?

because you wana pull everything straight from the battery. you dont wanna pull your power away from your fuse block because then that will short other appliances in your car

Originally Posted by blackbonnie

because you wana pull everything straight from the battery. you dont wanna pull your power away from your fuse block because then that will short other appliances in your car

Cool, thanks for the info, makes sense.

anytime guys. i am very big into audio and also a grand prix owner. i am very excited to bring all the knowledge i have to this site and help anyone out.

i have been very involved with car audio for about 6 years now and have learned alot over time.

dont be afraid to ask any question as everyone needs to know something.

stay tuned to my posts though as i will have my build log for my audio system up shortly.

whats this big 3 your talking about?

Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread - Car Audio Forum - CarAudio.com

read that. it should explain it, if not ask me again and i will go through and explain it

when you are fusing something, you wanna fuse to the size of the wire, not to the size of the amps, alternator, etc...

reason being is because if you fuse over the size of the wire, then you run the potential of burning up the wire, starting a fire, etc.

your amps fuse/fuses, or your fuse box fuses will take care of themselves and blow when the max current is reached. thats there job. no reason to do the same job twice. (unless your amp does not have any on board fuses, then you will fuse to the necessary amperage the amp will pull.

fyi, 1/0 is rated (usually at max) 300 amps.