I'm looking to amp the door speakers in my car, would it be worth it to even amp the 6x9's in the rear deck? Also would I need to fuse the lines between the amps and a distribution block or just keep the one near the batt?
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10-05-2012
I'm looking to amp the door speakers in my car, would it be worth it to even amp the 6x9's in the rear deck? Also would I need to fuse the lines between the amps and a distribution block or just keep the one near the batt?
10-05-2012
Yes, you want to fuse the distribution block as well. Because at the distribution block, it splits into two or more smaller lines. (IE: A 4 gauge line splits into 2 8 gauge lines). The smaller power lines require a smaller current fuse. As for amping the 6x9's, its up to you. If you are going for staging, then no. If you're going for loud, then yes.
10-05-2012
Could you explain staging? I will probably just amp the doors because usually its just me and a buddy in the front of the car and and could use the extra loudness over the bass. The 2 Ch amp I have only does like 50 rms x2 and only accepts 10ga wire, and I got some 10ft of 10gauge KnuKonceptz speaker wire that should work for the power.
10-05-2012
In most cases you do not need to fuse a distribution block as most amps have fuses already in them. It is only if the amp to be connected does not have a fuse you must add one inline with the D block.
If you are adding only 1 amp you don't even need that anyways. Run a wire straight to the battery with a fuse and call it a day.
10-05-2012
I prob should specify I would be running 2 amps, a Mono block and a 2ch.
10-05-2012
The amp fuses are there to protect the amp, not the wire. Always protect your wire. The best analogy I can think of is, just because some strange says she's on birth control, are you still gonna hit it bare back? If you say yes, I say chlamydia.Originally Posted by Dans 01
As basic as possible..... It should feel like you're at a concert and you should be able to close your eyes and envision where the instruments were positioned on the stage, from left to right. The 6x9's will ruin this.
10-06-2012
The main at the battery fuse would still protect the outputs of lets say a 4ga in and 8ga out PDB. Most times the 8 gauge leads are very short and the possibility of shorting them to ground is very remote, if they did the main fuse would blow.
Like I said technically you don't need a fused block if your amp/s all have one, if you want to do it anyways it's all good.
Only reason I do a fused PDB is to make access to the amp fuse easier if it is a PITA to get to the amp fuse itself. I put the amp fuse value in the PDB and replace the one in the amp with a slightly large one so it won't blow, the one in the PDB will first.
Strange analogy I must say...hmm....is she open to blumpykins instead?
10-06-2012
I have JL Audio C2 components up front, and C2 6x9's in the rear of my car, Using an alpine PowerPack. Its a cheap alternative to a big amp, and fits behind the dash. May be something worth looking into? the model number is KTP-445U. Runs about $130 bucks. Worth every cent.
10-06-2012
Thanks guys you are always helpful. I am probably going to just amp all 4 speakers because I would like a more balanced sound. Sadly I'l have to buy all new 5.25's and 6x9s because the cheap pioneers I have are only like 15w RMS and a new HU because one I have only has 1 RCA outs.. I will fuse the power between the PDB and the amps just to be safe.
10-07-2012
Lets say he's running a 4awg to two 8awgs. The 4awg will take up to a 135A fuse, and runs to two 8awg wires (rated at 65A). Lets say one of the 8awg wires has a soft short that does not exceed 135A draw to blow the main line but exceeds the 65A the line can handle. If you dont have an extinguisher, you will watch the car burn down. It's pretty rare, but it has happened. What's an extra $10 for insurance? As for the analogy, I thought it was pretty spot on. But chicks willing to do blumpkins are actually rarer than a car fire caused by bad wiring.
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