Quote Originally Posted by Undercrazed View Post
I agree with that, however, its hard to find those monoblocks at a budget price. Those amplifiers are some high-end pieces of equipment. For budget, a dual channel would work fine bridged. But if the subs don't match right, bridging can cause a lot of heat with those cheapies and send the amp in protection if its equipped with it. Also, the strut tower bolts are a good place if you remove the paint underneath and add a washer to add better connection.
Not quite...and not to be rude either but Class D rules the cost per watt ratio unless you're looking at full range class D amplifiers. Typically Class A powered amplifiers are the end all. For full range, Class A/B is where the masses look and to keep costs down, Class D is utilized for anything playing below ~500mhz since the benefits of an A/B design effect mid-range moreso than mid-bass or sub frequencies. It's also because Class D is more efficient so it's easier to design and produce more power with less heat constraints and ultimately smaller products.

Almost all audio circuits and design are the same for the last 30+ years except for the recent introduction of full range class D. What you're paying for these days are quality of components, brand name, and the costs of packaing/marketing/etc before it gets to your door.

The mechanics of your install is what decides the "sound" and characteristics of your setup. Subwoofer?....go class D on a budget :>

https://www.google.com/search?q=class+d+amplifier&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a&channel=fflb#q=class+d+amplifier&hl=en&client=fi refox-a&hs=srd&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&channel=fflb&prmd=imvns&source=lnms&tbm=sh op&sa=X&ei=aIzsT5ukKu306AHNxp3wBQ&ved=0CFEQ_AUoBQ& bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=3e94936e9ccb b820&biw=1680&bih=985