Thread: need help with subs/amp

300 is a nice price for the whole setup. But Im done with JL. That exact amp lasted 2 yrs for me. Twice. And I havent met a JL sub that hasnt blown within a year or two.

I WAS running a that 500/1 with 2 12w6v2's. They sounded amazing until they blew. Now Im on my backup a Polk momo 600 with some cheap pioneer 12's. For $300 I would honestly buy that shÃ*t. I spent over $1500 on that amp and the 12w6's. But this wasnt my first let down from JL. I went through 8 10"w3's, 4 12" w3's, a 13.5" w7 and 4 12" w6's v1 and v2's. (v1 W6's didnt blow, they were lost in a rear end crash (they were the bomb dot com in my book)) I love the subs but they just havent been good to me. I cant blow these POS pioneers for the life of me.

Originally Posted by natethegreat

haha ok, i don't listen to to songs that are just bass, but i do like the punch, so im thinking this system will do good

Definitely! At that price, I'd try them again.

Passenger side, low on the firewall is a rubber grommet. (you may need to remove the coolant reservoir if its mounted to your strut tower) It comes inside the car behind the glove box.

You just need an inline converter to get the audio signal to your amp ( not sure if thats what you meant by Y splitter)

yeah thats what i meant, then do i need to wire in a kill switch for the woofers?

No, just run the remote line (switched 12v). Same as you would if you had an aftermarket HU, only you will need to get the switched 12v from your ignition lines or by adding a circuit to your fuse panel in the glovebox.

300? Nice deal. I'm surprised you had problems with JL Keith. I had a couple of 12w1v2s that I got for 110 that took a beating until I sold them, and are still taking a beating today from a horribly clipped signal.

Yeah, apparently I keep getting the lemons. Ive owned Vega strokers, Kicker solo barics, Orions, MTX's, JbL's and these cheap pioneers that I have now. Only subs that I ever had blow were the JL's. I put JL's in all of my friends cars (cause I could get them cheap with a dealer discount) and they've never had issues with them.

Well, I believe the stock bose set up is @ 2ohms. So if you put those 4 ohm speakers in, it will sound weaker. Also, are these speakers coaxial or component? I dont think the bose amp crossover is full range in the rear. And I believe the fronts are divided as well. I.E. Mids to the 5 1/4's and highs to the tweets.

I would stick with the stocks until you get an aftermarket HU. Then you can run them all full range without an amp. Then amplify them later. Its tricky to run an aftermarket 4 channel amp with the stock HU because you need a full range signal. And I dont think the bose has a full range signal to connect the in-line converters to.