I am upgrading my sounds system in my 01 gp gt and was wondering how much power has someone run off the stock alternator? and also i am planning on doing big 3 how hard is this to do? with just doing big 3 i was hoping to push like 1000-1200 watts.
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01-02-2011
I am upgrading my sounds system in my 01 gp gt and was wondering how much power has someone run off the stock alternator? and also i am planning on doing big 3 how hard is this to do? with just doing big 3 i was hoping to push like 1000-1200 watts.
01-03-2011
Not to be an ass...but please search. I know I've talked about this plenty myself
01-03-2011
more than you'll ever need unless you're either deaf or doing sound comps.
01-04-2011
Sorry about that i usually do but i was in a hurry. I800collect i read a lot of your post and I am still a little confused on why you do not think i have to upgrade to big 3.
01-04-2011
Majority of the reasoning deals with wire lengths vs. power draw. Most people decide to do a big 3 because their lights dim. So they go down a tumultuous path of upgrading wire anywhere and everywhere.
Most don't realize that their current grounds are either old and rusty or never maintained enough surface area with the grounding point in order to be effective.
So...you can only draw as much power from the positive as your ground is able to theoretically dissipate. If your grounds are not connected very well then you aren't going to be able to draw much power.
01-11-2011
I do believe you just gave him every reason that you DO want the big 3. The current grounding points could be rusting or lacking in surface area, creating new ones allows you to fix these issues. Getting 1200 watts of output from an amplifier will cause a 1700 watt draw assuming ~70% efficiency. Add that 1700 to your cars basic electronic functions and you have over 2000 watts flowing through your stock 6-8 gauge wires. Thats 140-145amps, any wire gauge below 2 gauge will cause significant voltage drop when carrying that much current. Not to mention the heat generated. The Big 3 is too simple and inexpensive of an upgrade to not do when dealing with high-power car audio, even on a stock alt.
01-12-2011
Alonzo...I've been down this road with MANY people. Big 3 has it's place...but not with audio systems that are daily drivers. Please don't use "watts" as if to presume I don't have a clue.
How about you do me a favor alonzo; explain how dynamic power draw equates to "watts". Why doesn't a tweeter blow when hooked up to a single "100 watt" channel from an amplifier? Please define the parameters that amount to average power consumption. Do that without "rms" because it's not a real variable/measurement. Do it without reflecting on fusing.
Oh yea...while your'e at it...tell me why Zuki amps need the Big 3 too?
Amplifiers
Eleets 2 channel: 2x5 watts @ 8ohms.
And 4 ohms doesn't necessarily double the power of that Zuki either.
Sorry about the tone but I'm sick of misinformation. Instead of questioning others when their logic doesn't correlate with your own, maybe you should point the finger at yourself first for a change. Once you've answered those questions, then reflect on the other individual's perspective. You could have easily clicked on my build logs in my thread to give you a heads up.
01-12-2011
Grand Prixs Of North America • View topic - highout put alternator?
Casper has been to world competitions running off stock alternators and running sine waves to his "2kw" setup. Nothing but a stock alternator. Sine waves are very different from dynamic music. He had the batteries to help maintain voltage and power while the engine was off during his runs in the lanes. Big 3 in his case was to maintain voltage, NOT because it was cool or anything else. Voltage is your heart beat when doing SPL.
If you aren't in SPL and you can't prove scientifically that Big 3 is of help to a daily driver then there's probably some fault in your reasoning.
01-13-2011
First, in no way did I use "watts" as if you didn't have a clue.
Is your intention with these questions that have nothing to do with the Big 3 to make me look stupid? I guess I'll try my best to answer them...
Power (watts) is the measure of the rate of energy consumption in Joules per second. Having a dynamic power draw is as simple as having a constantly changing power draw, much like an amplifiers power draw when playing music.
If you hook up a tweeter to an amplifier and send a 100 watt rms signal to it, it will probably blow, unless of-course you are sending a signal which is being suppressed by a filter. Then again you said a "100-watt" channel not a 100 watt signal... so there could be a lot of things effecting why that tweeter isn't blowing.
The average power consumed by your amplifier doesn't need to be defined by RMS because its not an AC signal.
I did mention "High-power" car-audio applications in my previous post, I will assume you missed that because I think you are smart enough to realize that 10 watts of power output is not by any means "high". I did google the brand though and saw they were rated at .005%THD, this most likely means they can put out a lot more than 5 watts of power per channel before clipping.
I also never claimed that you NEED the Big 3. I simply said it was an inexpensive upgrade that is worth doing. While I realize that a solid sine wave is much different than the complex dynamics of music, I myself listen to music where the bass will stay solid and loud for 3+ seconds, this means a fairly constant power draw for an extended period of time. Feeding 150 amps through an 8 gauge wire for extended periods of time will cause the wire to become extremely hot, to the point of melting the shielding even. The voltage drop from such a thin wire will reach over 1/2 a volt, robbing your system of power.
I understand where your coming from and I admit I'm not a car audio guru; but, my question to you is... why not? It is an easy upgrade... a cheap upgrade... and can help sort out voltage drops. Why not do it? Also, Iceroyal never commented on whether or not he planned on competing, if he does than thats even MORE reason to maintain high voltage.
01-13-2011
Originally Posted by alonzoub
I'm not so much against the "Big 3" as I am the application of knowledge that employs it's use. I've seen a lot of threads where people come back with...
"omg windows are fast...it's awesome!!"
"my lights still dim"
"I have no idea what it does but everybody says I should!!"
My honest advice for MOST people is that 4awg power wire is probably fine for their applications and that Big 3 is more of a feel good moment. It's still somewhat easy to work with yet large enough for most applications. And you're right, 3 second bass note is different than listening to DMB or Kenny Rogers. Most of the time that's not generated by an instrument though which really changes fundamentals and transients. I don't like most computer generated beats. People can really tell the difference in recording quality in my car. I get made fun of for OCD but then friends and family start skipping songs just because of quality the same way I do; kinda funny.
I'm really glad you addressed a lot of what I said. Again, sorry for coming off like an ass. Another reason I don't like the Big 3 is because most people don't crimp or solder wires correctly. It's more quantity than quality. Again, if you know how to do it the right way...I'm all for it. But don't think it's really going to make a big difference with your music applications.
When I had my "2kw" system I averaged about 35amps of power draw. At home I have a "15w" sub/amp setup and people think I have a gorilla hiding somewhere. I would go as far to say that tweeters couldn't handle a constant 5w or a mid handle a steady 25w. The coil is cooling off during those fractions of a second it's not being used. Big difference from that and turning into a heat sink.
Competing? My first assumption is that if he is asking simple questions then he doesn't know much about designing boxes. Voltage is the simplest aspect of competing. Maybe I just go head first into everything? Most guys think power is key. Not really...there's guys that can hit 150 with two 12's and 500watts. There's people who can hit 150 with a 6.5" sub too. It's all about design and efficiency. Very different ways to achieve the goals.
01-13-2011
Watt | Define Watt at Dictionary.comW the derived SI unit of power, equal to 1 joule per second; the power dissipated by a current of 1 ampere flowing across a potential difference of 1 volt. 1 watt is equivalent to 1.341 × 10 --3 horsepower
The way I read that...in our audio applications we're talking about heat dissipation as the primary concern.
01-13-2011
Okay, so i'd like to say we are almost on the same page with this.
I understand your frustration with people who don't know what they are doing and assume the Big 3 or a cap is a magic hocus-pocus remedy for a demanding system.
I guess its also safe to say The Big 3 is not as effective for people who don't listen to music with very long high energy bass lines. I was actually on my way to class this afternoon listening to my system and thought to myself, a lot of these songs actually have bass notes extending throughout maybe 70% of the entire song. Heres an example of a song I really like (and sounds fantastic on my pair of ported IDQ10v3's btw) YouTube - Pendulum 'Watercolour'. (bassline starts @ about :47)
If you don't know how to do the Big 3 on your own and you have to pay someone $100+ to do it and you are NOT competing, its probably not for you. If you can do it yourself then I still think its worth it on a "1kw+" setup, no matter what kind of music you listen to.
I used to run a single 10" sub pushing ~500watts and my lights would dim in my '05 Mazda 3. Since then my amp quit working so I decided to upgrade to 2 subs and double the power. I now run an AQ2200D @ 2-ohms with no light dimming whatsoever and all I did was upgrade wiring in my car. That alone made it worth it for me. And for those people that continue to get voltage drop after The Big 3, chances are its time for a new battery, maybe a Kinetik or an Optima.
01-13-2011
pendulum used to be so epic.....
used to be.
Most of that song seems to be rather high in the frequency range.
meaning it shouldn't be too terribly taxing.
01-13-2011
Yea, Pendulum has changed a bit, "Hold Your Colour", and "Immersion" are the better of their 3 albums in my eyes though. "In Silico" wasn't remarkably impressive, but still good. Anyway solid bass lines like those lasting practically throughout the whole song will give you a higher average power draw than most songs.
01-13-2011
thats for sure.
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