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  1. #1 Re: Car audio question? 
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    Grand Prixs Of North America • View topic - highout put alternator?

    Casper has been to world competitions running off stock alternators and running sine waves to his "2kw" setup. Nothing but a stock alternator. Sine waves are very different from dynamic music. He had the batteries to help maintain voltage and power while the engine was off during his runs in the lanes. Big 3 in his case was to maintain voltage, NOT because it was cool or anything else. Voltage is your heart beat when doing SPL.

    If you aren't in SPL and you can't prove scientifically that Big 3 is of help to a daily driver then there's probably some fault in your reasoning.
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  2. #2 Re: Car audio question? 
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    First, in no way did I use "watts" as if you didn't have a clue.

    Is your intention with these questions that have nothing to do with the Big 3 to make me look stupid? I guess I'll try my best to answer them...

    Power (watts) is the measure of the rate of energy consumption in Joules per second. Having a dynamic power draw is as simple as having a constantly changing power draw, much like an amplifiers power draw when playing music.

    If you hook up a tweeter to an amplifier and send a 100 watt rms signal to it, it will probably blow, unless of-course you are sending a signal which is being suppressed by a filter. Then again you said a "100-watt" channel not a 100 watt signal... so there could be a lot of things effecting why that tweeter isn't blowing.

    The average power consumed by your amplifier doesn't need to be defined by RMS because its not an AC signal.

    I did mention "High-power" car-audio applications in my previous post, I will assume you missed that because I think you are smart enough to realize that 10 watts of power output is not by any means "high". I did google the brand though and saw they were rated at .005%THD, this most likely means they can put out a lot more than 5 watts of power per channel before clipping.

    I also never claimed that you NEED the Big 3. I simply said it was an inexpensive upgrade that is worth doing. While I realize that a solid sine wave is much different than the complex dynamics of music, I myself listen to music where the bass will stay solid and loud for 3+ seconds, this means a fairly constant power draw for an extended period of time. Feeding 150 amps through an 8 gauge wire for extended periods of time will cause the wire to become extremely hot, to the point of melting the shielding even. The voltage drop from such a thin wire will reach over 1/2 a volt, robbing your system of power.

    I understand where your coming from and I admit I'm not a car audio guru; but, my question to you is... why not? It is an easy upgrade... a cheap upgrade... and can help sort out voltage drops. Why not do it? Also, Iceroyal never commented on whether or not he planned on competing, if he does than thats even MORE reason to maintain high voltage.
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  3. #3 Re: Car audio question? 
    Audio Moderator I800C0LLECT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alonzoub View Post
    I understand where your coming from and I admit I'm not a car audio guru; but, my question to you is... why not? It is an easy upgrade... a cheap upgrade... and can help sort out voltage drops. Why not do it? Also, Iceroyal never commented on whether or not he planned on competing, if he does than thats even MORE reason to maintain high voltage.


    I'm not so much against the "Big 3" as I am the application of knowledge that employs it's use. I've seen a lot of threads where people come back with...

    "omg windows are fast...it's awesome!!"
    "my lights still dim"
    "I have no idea what it does but everybody says I should!!"

    My honest advice for MOST people is that 4awg power wire is probably fine for their applications and that Big 3 is more of a feel good moment. It's still somewhat easy to work with yet large enough for most applications. And you're right, 3 second bass note is different than listening to DMB or Kenny Rogers. Most of the time that's not generated by an instrument though which really changes fundamentals and transients. I don't like most computer generated beats. People can really tell the difference in recording quality in my car. I get made fun of for OCD but then friends and family start skipping songs just because of quality the same way I do; kinda funny.

    I'm really glad you addressed a lot of what I said. Again, sorry for coming off like an ass. Another reason I don't like the Big 3 is because most people don't crimp or solder wires correctly. It's more quantity than quality. Again, if you know how to do it the right way...I'm all for it. But don't think it's really going to make a big difference with your music applications.

    When I had my "2kw" system I averaged about 35amps of power draw. At home I have a "15w" sub/amp setup and people think I have a gorilla hiding somewhere. I would go as far to say that tweeters couldn't handle a constant 5w or a mid handle a steady 25w. The coil is cooling off during those fractions of a second it's not being used. Big difference from that and turning into a heat sink.

    Competing? My first assumption is that if he is asking simple questions then he doesn't know much about designing boxes. Voltage is the simplest aspect of competing. Maybe I just go head first into everything? Most guys think power is key. Not really...there's guys that can hit 150 with two 12's and 500watts. There's people who can hit 150 with a 6.5" sub too. It's all about design and efficiency. Very different ways to achieve the goals.
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