Thread: tuning a sub and stereo

Originally Posted by Toofastgs

O my!
I think i hit a nerve.

Im not going to start a pissing match(there is a lot of fail in this thread) but one has their way of doing things that includes half assed, while others take their time and do it right. If i look at it this way yes i half assed it too because i did not go out and tune with a oscilloscope, so i did the next best thing(dmm).

Now back to original post i was trying to clear up is that you stated a ""A low pass filter decides what frequency to cut off below 20hz."" which is wrong a Low pass allows all frequencies below a set point, and blocks all above that set point.

And i stand by what i posted a good starting point on settings is to set main speakers main speakers high pass to 80hz and subs low pass to 80hz. Then you can start to fine tune the range knowing the specs of the speakers.

You my friend are a PHAIL for thinking 80 Hz subwoofer/midbass crossover point= SQ.

This "tuning of the gain" concept is retarded. If all of your gear is designed to operate on the same voltage then set the amp's gains to full and control the levels from the HU. If you don't want to do that, set it to a moderate sound level, and change the gains so the different speakers are equal in sound level so that you get your beloved flat sound. Why do you need an oscilloscope when the home audio guys use an SPL meter... You don't.

See below for more.

To the OP: I've had a great bit of luck placing the sub facing rearward and near the rear lip of the trunk (1-3 inches away). Opening the passthrough in the rear seats also helps once you start pushing larger amounts of air since putting the sub in the trunk is already a stupid idea to begin with.

Originally Posted by Toofastgs

WOW so much fail.

First off, Sound engineers if they are worth a damn and care about the sound record every track they produce as flat as possible.

LOL have you ever heard a song equalized to be flat? If you want to hear what it sounds like, give me a song name and I'll equalize it for you... You'll cringe as you die from the shrieking sounds of "flatness." Yes, I want you to record "flat sound" and show me what it sounds like. Heres a hint, it'd look like this _________________________ Sort of what a cardiograph shows when someone's heart stops beating.

Do you know how audio engineers actually equalize music? They produce something which sounds good on their studio monitors, switch to another set, and balance between the two, find other sources (I.E. home audio setup etc) and see if it still sounds good there. What is the point of having "flat" sound if it only sounds good on studio monitors in a professionally designed studio? The people who would buy the music have to be able to enjoy it as well.

Originally Posted by Toofastgs

Power is not everything. And this is one of the biggest things people that do not know about audio systems make. They think the more power the better. In reality you by the amp that match the specs of your speakers. Over powering can kill speakers. Not as much as Distorted power getting to speakers but it can kill speakers. How? simple HEAT. The voice coil was designed for a certain operating temp and over powering creates more heat then what the voice coil was designed for and with out either proper cooling or high quality components it could fail.

And clipping will kill a driver thermally just as fast as over powering for the reason being, square waves do not cool woofers as well as sine waves.

Originally Posted by Toofastgs

First off tuning by ear is like calibrating a HDTV to ISF standards with just eye. You can get it in the ballpark but it will never be right aka the way the sound engineer recorded it and intended it to be played back.

If you can't hear what a flat neutral speaker sounds like, then you shouldn't be able to review any speakers because you have NO idea what flat frequency response is in the first place.

Originally Posted by Toofastgs

Clipping happens at ALL frequency ranges. The lower the hz the more the human hear can not hear it. And it is not just par, hip hop, or related genres. It happens during a musical peak and happens in ALL music even speeches. And that little LED is eye candy just like our boost gauge.

Clipping can happen anywhere but mostly happens with bass because even when its clipping, people think the bass sounds good. People think cranking up the bass boost will make their sub's pound harder. But no... it just makes them clip sooner.

That LED isn't actually, it tells you when the amp is clipping which means BACK OFF unless you want to damage your drivers.

Originally Posted by I800C0LLECT

So are you concluding I know nothing about audio? Every man is worth something. Let me help you by adding a link. Don't get upset Matt

The "Real Deal" with 8 ohm drivers - DIY Mobile Audio

Only thing I don't like is claiming that it makes a real difference... most people have MUCH bigger issues than that to worry about with their installs. That and most car audio amps are setup for 4 ohm speakers or less meaning you'll get a very small usable amount of power out of your amp. I could show you some cases of extreme power on tap, but you can't do that in a car so its not worth going over. And by that I mean having 3000-6000 watts to power a line array.

And you couldn't possibly piss me off since you're too level headed lol