maf is bad or the wires for sure. good luck at the junk yard.
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Thanks again for the advice. Fingers crossed i find one and it works.
Well after hours of searching, and hundreds of cars searched, i was unable to find one maf sensor.... i noticed one car had the IAC sensor in it so i figured what the hell I'll take it anyway. Got home cleaned the sensor i bought while my battery was charging. Put it in and wouldn't ya know it, she fired right up and stays running without touching the pedal , still gettig maf sensor code, even after clearing the codes,so im gonna order one online (any suggestions? ) but for now its running great again, other than the overheating.
I think the one in there now is a aftermarket one, looks brand new, but i cleaned it and still popping low input codes
I need the oem part number though lol
AFH50M05 is your part #
this is one http://www.ebay.com/itm/AFH50M05-Mass-Air-Flow-MAF-Sensor-Meter-Chevy-Pontiac-Buick-7450015-/271036500529?hash=item3f1b08ca31&vxp=mtr
i double checked that on rockauto. its a match.
Ok, i bought it. next up is the overheating.....lmao , what ya got there
Your thinking fans huh. I was wondering if i have a clogged system. I have the dexcool sludge on my cap. And fans wouldn't help if i put the tstat back in because it instantly overheats with tstat in.
buy a new t stat.
how to properly flush your engine
remove the t stat, put the t stat housing back on, take the upper hose off the radiator, then push it down to the ground to a bucket or let it fly.
get your garden hose out, put it in the rad turn it on, then fire up the car, let it run till clear water pumps out the top hose.
then turn the hose off, run the car till no more water comes out the upper hose. then turn it off.
put your t stat back in, with new gasket, the upper hose back on.
now take 1 gallon of full strength green antifreeze, not the 50/50 crap. ( parts store cheap green is fine to use) dump the whole gallon in the radiator, fire up the car, fill the rad with hose water till its full. top as needed till its ready to be bled of air. it will burp and take coolant as the water in the block warms up the t stat opens up for a few seconds till cold coolant hits it and it shuts again.
now to bleed the air out, let it idle rad cap off till the fans turn on, (when the fans are on the temp is over 195 deg, the t stat is wide open) then open the bleeder screw on top the t stat housing a few turns till a steady stream of coolant comes out the hole, shut the screw, top off the rad. cap it.
Gonna be a fun weekend it sounds like. Hope i can get all the kinks worked out because the engine is strong and runs great
You have any bubbles? That kinda sounds like a blown HG. Or like Scotty said, bad pump. Flush the heck out of that dex crap and put some green in it.
And sorry if I missed it, but have you put a water pump in? How many miles on car? If you have over 100k I'd put a new pump in. Cheap insurance.
No bubbles, when i give it gas i see the upper hose start to collapse, so i assumed pump was ok. I pray its not hg. It holds pressure in the coolant system good also. Has about 125k on it. Is the pump a pain to replace or what?
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