Thread: Ticking?

Originally Posted by jayroca

Ok i will check it out and check the egr as well... I will say i am missing 1 bolt to the rear manifold could that be the ticking? Do all bolts need to be used for the rear manifold its ticking is come from the rear and it gets louder when i get on it

Um. yes. You need all the bolts/studs on the headers. Don't leave any behind.

If you completely missed one bolt/stud, just get one and put it in. No sense in changing the gasket when you didn't seal it right to begin with.

This will also jack with your tune. After I fixed my header leak my a/f went from a solid 11.4-11.5 to an awesome 12.5:1 a/f. Not sure if you have a wideband (you should) but it's something to look for.

Originally Posted by jayroca

Ok i will check it out and check the egr as well... I will say i am missing 1 bolt to the rear manifold could that be the ticking? Do all bolts need to be used for the rear manifold its ticking is come from the rear and it gets louder when i get on it

Problem exists between seat and steering wheel. it's not a bolt issue, it's a loose screw.

cmon jay....... sorry im not in wash dc any more to supervise 3800 builds........HA!

Which is worse.. a guy that replaces a TC, drive chain and flex plate to cure a flex issue or a guy that leaves one or two bolts out?

You guys are both NUTZ

but you change vehicles faster than i assplode flexplates.......

i bet it will be another gp

tell you see a "good deal" on one. but i hear ya time for a new toy

Originally Posted by jayroca

Hey i got variety.. Lol and i resuse parts!!!! Next car is a vette or fbody promise

Don't you lie to me you havnt owned a regal or a bonnie yet.......

but he will get an ls7 vette