How Do I Break In The Motor After Rebuild?

**BLACKanREDgtp** · 04-07-2015

hey guys I have a 97 gtp ive modded her up pretty good after I installed my xp hot cam it spun a rod baring an ruined the crank so now im rebuilding her from the ground up putting a new crank new rod barings new cam barings new main barings new rings new water pump new oil pump a/c delete new gaskets all around got the heads resurfaced an the block resurfaced but after I get her all back together can u tell me the best way to break everything in so I don't have to go back thru all this again o yea I was told I have to pack the oil pump with vasaline I didn't know if that was true or not hadn't ever heard that b4 so ne help you guys could give me I would be greatly appreciate it

**0069GTP** · 04-07-2015

Hope you had the rods resized and had everything checked out with the crank. I also would have payed to have everything balanced while I was in there. Nothing much to break in really, after first start up let it run for a bit while you check for leaks etc. Then I would go ahead and change the oil myself, just drive normally for awhile maybe a few hundred miles and make sure everything is good.

Before first firing it up pull the fuel pump relay so it won't start and crank it over to get oil pressure up and make sure everything is lubricated. Hopefully you used assembly lube during the build.

**0069GTP** · 04-07-2015

BLACKanREDgtp, I think this thread is for how-to write-ups not how-to questions, read the sticky. This should probably go in the engine thread.

**BLACKanREDgtp** · 04-07-2015

Ok thank my bad the rods are standard an a new crank I took it to my machinist an he said everything was good but this treads said how to an write ups eveyone else asks questions here but if I did put it n the wrong place I'm sry this is just where I thought it went but thank you for ur input I don't really have the extra money to blue print it an balanced I appreciate ur input thank you

**0069GTP** · 04-07-2015

Originally Posted by BLACKanREDgtp

Ok thank my bad the rods are standard an a new crank I took it to my machinist an he said everything was good but this treads said how to an write ups eveyone else asks questions here but if I did put it n the wrong place I'm sry this is just where I thought it went but thank you for ur input I don't really have the extra money to blue print it an balanced I appreciate ur input thank you

No worries man, I was just letting you know. Hope everything goes well. I think I seen your car today on the way home from work, close to the road? Wouldn't mind to check it out sometime.

I don't have a ton of experience with GPs regarding performance mods yet. But I'm no stranger to others, made many passes at Bristol and Shadyside (been a long time since Shadyside though) and I spend a good 10 years turning wrenches for a living, bout 8 of them a the dealer down the mountain.

**Scottydoggs** · 04-07-2015

have your shop align hone the crank mains or it wont last 200 miles.

after the rebuild drive it like you stole it, its either gonna GO, or BLOW. LOL

piston rings seat best if driven somewhat hard. bearings have no break in time, nor does a roller cam. just do a oil change 3 to 500 miles after its on the road.

**0069GTP** · 04-07-2015

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

after the rebuild drive it like you stole it, its either gonna GO, or BLOW. LOL

LOL! That approach works to. I was always nervous and poor so I always babied them at first, hoping that if anything wasn't right or the occasional straight up part failure (although quality control is a lot better than it used to be) I would catch it before it flew apart and took innocent parts with it.

**stealthee** · 04-07-2015

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

have your shop align hone the crank mains or it wont last 200 miles.

after the rebuild drive it like you stole it, its either gonna GO, or BLOW. LOL

piston rings seat best if driven somewhat hard. bearings have no break in time, nor does a roller cam. just do a oil change 3 to 500 miles after its on the road.

This.

**Scottydoggs** · 04-07-2015

the thing is its either gonna run well, or not, why baby it? id rather know its f ed up asap vs next week.

the guy who built my brothers engine told him that. he had a flat tappet lifters, so he did the 3,000 rpm for like 20 minutes to break in the cam, oil change and tire smoke out the garage.

this was by no means a cheap engine, it was a early 70's 454 BB bored 30 over to a 462 iirc. and everything inside was over built. this was the mid 80's it was 7 grand in parts alone. guy who built it had built a few others almost like it and figured it was good for a easy 600 hp. it pulled 12's in a full weight 72 chevelle with slicks. it needed a higher stall in the converter or it would have been a bit faster.

that 7 g's dont include the B and M built th400, or the full posi 4.11 12 bolt rear. trans had a full manual valve body in it too. so you had to shift it 1,2 ,3. it used to break the wheels free at about any speed too. it was a beast.

**0069GTP** · 04-07-2015

Thats just how I am man, like I said I was always just cautious at first. I've built several engines myself and a ton of transmissions (Used to do 2 or 3 4l60s a week with stripped sun shells) and I was always a bit nervous until I knew they were good. Maybe since I know if they wasn't I got to do again for free, although that never happened but once or twice.

I said your way works to.

**Reptile** · 04-07-2015

Closed your other thread, and moved this since it's got the most hits.

**0069GTP** · 04-07-2015

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

the full posi 4.11 12 bolt rear.

BTW what is the "full posi" you speak of? I've never seen a half one. I remember a 3\4 race cam that they still charged full price for, always puzzled me.

LOL! I'm just cracking jokes man. Don't bash me, I got plenty of respect for ya. You're the GPF good samaritan, and I hope you'll offer me advice when needed.

**blueguy** · 04-07-2015

Drive it like you're gonna drive it anyways.

Like stated, I'd rather it break a block away the day of then two weeks later driving it to work on a nice day.

**Reptile** · 04-07-2015

I've built 5 blocks with the stock bolts, never line bored them...they were fine. Mine's currently got 28k on it.
Did 2 studded blocks, and did the line bore, that's pretty much required.
Make sure that the pistons are in correctly, they do have a front and back side. Keep things clean, and give the rings time to seat, but other than that....drive it like you're gonna drive it.

**Scottydoggs** · 04-07-2015

Originally Posted by 0069GTP

BTW what is the "full posi" you speak of? I've never seen a half one. I remember a 3\4 race cam that they still charged full price for, always puzzled me.

LOL! I'm just cracking jokes man. Don't bash me, I got plenty of respect for ya. You're the GPF good samaritan, and I hope you'll offer me advice when needed.

most rwd cars came with a limited slip part time full power to both wheels, or a wide open diff where only the right rear would spin.

a full posi rear means its got a locker pretty much, if one wheel slips the other joins right in putting full power to both wheels.

then you got a the spool rear this is full time power to both rear wheels, so making right hand turns on the street are real fun as the right rear wheels chirps and jerks the car because its spinning at the same speed as the left rear taking the long way around the turn lol

a friend had 67 1/2 camaro, tubed rear with 33' tall street slicks and a 5.56 spool rear. my brothers engine and tranny ended up in this car, it was a full race car, roll cage frame tied, little bike wheels up front, full cell in the trunk, custom sheet metal dash, you get the idea, a real race car lol it was bought set up for 1.8 mile racing, we drove it on the street cause we were nuts lol

ill whore this up a bit lol

the camaro

and the chevelle. my brother testing out the new slicks. any one who knows NJ lic plates can tell how old this pic is, its blue....NJ has had so many plate color changes so often its silly.

**BrandonHall10** · 04-07-2015

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

It's kinda hard to tell from that picture but, is that a....... mullet?

**0069GTP** · 04-07-2015

I don't know Scotty 5.56 gears seems a bit short for "a real race car lol it was bought set up for 1.8 mile racing" how many RPMS was thing turning!

Again, just know I'm just joking around. I assumed you were referring to a spool, those are awesome until you go around a curve with any speed, lol!

Camaro looks bada** btw.

**0069GTP** · 04-07-2015

And I just noticed the mullet comment. I wasn't going to say anything, but I was thinking he was late for the Iron Maiden concert.

**Scottydoggs** · 04-07-2015

not a mullet, that pic was taken maybe 3 years after he just stopped getting his hair cut lol its the same length from top to bottom, ( think of cousin it) its the same way today too. my brother grows his hair past his ass, then cuts it at the shoulder and donates the over 2 foot of hair to some cancer wig program. hes been doing that for over 20 years now.

the gears were retarded, it used to have a small block in it that was good for 9,000 rpm, it was bought with no motor or tranny. the big block quit rpms at maybe 6,000.

it never got drag raced, just busted it around on the street ripping the front wheels off the ground from stop lights lol

id say the spool rear got real old about a week in, who wants to be jerked around at every turn. at the track with tires that frigging big, it kinda needs it tho.

**Uno99** · 04-07-2015

Blow or go thats what you told me when i spun my bearing when i rebuilt mine lol......i did the run for 15-20 min then changed oil. Then 300 miles and another oil change then 500 and a change. i drove mine pretty hard but did not go up over 4000rpm for the first 100 miles. Then i drove it pretty hard after that.

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