kr spike during wot shift

**87IROCZOWNER69** · 07-06-2014

Bone stock 2000 gtp with 87k on it. Took it out for a drive after hooking up my aero force and decided to do some wot pulls to see how the car was doing in the kr area. Well it would spike at 2 degrees of kr during the pull (would stay around 1 most of the time) and right when it would shift the lights above the gauge would flash and the car would spit out a 9 degrees of kr reading (would be around 7 with the ac off).

So what's going on? Engine issues or is something moving around mid shift? Thinking about flipping the dog bones to reduce movement and see if that helps combat the issue at hand.

**ADrugDealer** · 07-06-2014

This is pretty normal as the shift will cause lots of vibration. It's most likely false KR. Are you running 91+ octane?

**87IROCZOWNER69** · 07-06-2014

Yessir

**ADrugDealer** · 07-06-2014

Most likley false. My car knocks 2-5* during shifts too. Wait for a second opinion but I wouldn't pay attention

**Fivefingerdeathpunch** · 07-06-2014

It's stock.

**Scottydoggs** · 07-06-2014

ive seen 8* bone stock.

**ADrugDealer** · 07-06-2014

well yeah, but he's talking during shifts I thought. Mine knocks all the time during shifts

**87IROCZOWNER69** · 07-06-2014

Yeah it only spikes bad during the shift and it does shift pretty firm...

**REDCRAPGP** · 07-06-2014

It's a stock car I wouldn't worry to much about it.. Just take care of the normal maintenance and eventually if you decide to mod it you'll be getting rid of the KR

**87IROCZOWNER69** · 07-07-2014

I will mod it and as of right now I'm saving up for the stattama turbo kit and a nice built transmission but that will take some time to save up for so in the mean time maybe an intake or headers and a nice tune.

**tomtom123** · 07-07-2014

Best thing you can do is get rid of the u-bend. I recommend either cut it out and straight pipe that little section, or headers especially if going turbo build. On my stock GTP I got a ZZP 2.5" catted downpipe and saw knock only on wot pulls when it shifted. But then I went the cam route and got headers. Just get headers right off the bat or delete the u-bend after the cat and you should see a lot less knock

**Scottydoggs** · 07-07-2014

headers for a turbo build? typo?

**tomtom123** · 07-07-2014

Oh lol oops, not a typo but rather a brain fart.. Lol xD

Disregard the headers =P

**87IROCZOWNER69** · 07-07-2014

Like I said maybe grab some ssacs or a plog and a downpipe and go from there

**87IROCZOWNER69** · 07-07-2014

Yeah you were starting to confuse me lol

**TwinV6GTP** · 07-07-2014

Originally Posted by 87IROCZOWNER69

Bone stock 2000 gtp with 87k on it. Took it out for a drive after hooking up my aero force and decided to do some wot pulls to see how the car was doing in the kr area. Well it would spike at 2 degrees of kr during the pull (would stay around 1 most of the time) and right when it would shift the lights above the gauge would flash and the car would spit out a 9 degrees of kr reading (would be around 7 with the ac off).

So what's going on? Engine issues or is something moving around mid shift? Thinking about flipping the dog bones to reduce movement and see if that helps combat the issue at hand.

There is a slighty delay between knock detection/reading by the ecu. If shows up right after the shift, the knock is at high RPM right before the shift.
Usually it's real knock.

All my S/C set ups had a tendency to get slight KR after the shift. Now turbo there is zero knock, same car hard shifts etc...
It was real knock all along. Same thing happened with the parts car. Once turbo no more "fantom KR"

**87IROCZOWNER69** · 07-07-2014

I'm just going to do some flow mods and a tune and see what happens. I have a Camaro and a beat up intrepid I can beat on in the mean time

**87IROCZOWNER69** · 08-06-2014

Pretty sure it's all real kr. I took it out to do a pull with my mother in the car to show her how the gauge works and right at the 1-2 shift it hit about 10 degrees of kr and started to feel like it was misfiring and was showing 166 misfires. That was threes weeks ago. The car now will put out around 2 or 3 degrees of kr at partial acceleration and will sometimes stumble and feel like it's misfiring but the check engine light has yet to come on. Today I installed new plugs and wires in the front (destroyed my finger on the aluminum fan motor cover so I stopped for the day) and I will see where things go after I finish up the plugs and wires. The old plugs and wires were the originals and one of the wires was even replaced with some random wire.

**87IROCZOWNER69** · 08-07-2014

Finished the plugs and wires today and the more I drove on them the lower the kr got. First initial pull after letting it warm up netted me 1-2 degrees during the pull and 4 degrees at the shift. A little later I did another one and ended up with .5 degrees of kr during and 2.5 at the shift. On my final pull I had almost no kr during the pull ( maybe a small blip of .1....... maaaaaybe) and about 1.5 at the shift. Also no more misfire during partial throttle either. So ill run it like this for a while and if the kr completely vanishes I'll leave it otherwise I might just do a plog and downpipe and call it good until I can go turbo.....oh and an in car tune would be cool!

**87IROCZOWNER69** · 10-02-2014

Kr is back just as bad as it was before and it starts to kick in as soon as the scan gauge shows that I'm in boost. Now when I first bought the car i washed the engine bay and it ran a little lumpy after that but it slowly smoothed out after a few days. Is it possible my problems lies in the fact that I may have waterlogged some of my ignition parts? Also plog and dp are sitting in my house waiting to go on