Looking to run a cam and I am wondering what all I'd need to change with it? Thinking XP or S1X. I know springs and obviously a tune, but what else wouldn't be up to the task? Stock heads.
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Looking to run a cam and I am wondering what all I'd need to change with it? Thinking XP or S1X. I know springs and obviously a tune, but what else wouldn't be up to the task? Stock heads.
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Springs, retainers, timing chain, tune, timing cover gasket, coolant elbows, vc gaskets. That's the basics. Lim would be a good idea to do also.
Ok thank you. What would be some recomended replacments to run a cam like stated before. I know what these parts do, but I don't know how to determine what degree of improvement would be needed over stock. 130lb springs? Etc
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Depends on what you want to do and the money that you want to spend some guys will go with 105s and stock replacement timing chain others will go with ls6s. Some will go with 130s and double roller. It's just to many different set ups.. I can't recommend anything you just have to do your research and decide what YOU want to do and what you don't mind giving up. Several guys run different set ups and some had had issues and others have not.. That what makes it difficult to really recommend anything. Sorry I can't be more help to you.
I understand, it's just difficult for me to state exactly what I'm after when I only know the general part lineup I want. I haven't stated purchasing power adders yet. I am looking to build a reliable and powerful setup. Basically, I hope to run a cam (let's say XP), headers or plogs if I ever find any, an IC and whatever pully from there. I would be looking to do the cam and exhaust first of course.
Basically, my knowledge lacks in what the stock setup lacks. And what exactly takes more load from a cam with higher lift. I understand the springs and timing chain's purpose, but I don't know how much of an upgrade is best to use with a cam with stock rockers.
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Other than what is being replaced with the cam (as stated above ie springs, retainers, seals, gaskets, timing chain), a tune is all you need. All the other stuff will just limit the car if you don't upgrade it (headers, TB, injectors, intake). It's not like a pulley where you have to get more flow to avoid KR. Hell, I did the VS cam, SD Headers, 3.4", and a HAI w/ no tune and I hardly ever get KR unless I am WOT and that's because I run 87 because I am cheap. I'm sure I'll get more power out of it once I tune it, but it runs just fine. Once you do the swap, always scan for KR though.
Also, in regards to Plog, downpipe, ported mani's, just avoid all that and go straight for the headers. Cheaper and more bang for your buck.
Yeah I want headers, but I ordered a zzp downpipe unaware that it won't actually work wit headers lol I suppose you're right, I won't get to install anything soon anyways. I want to get a good list of parts together and I have no means to tune it without a tuner :/
I am wondering what a good parts list would be if I were to do just the cam.. I don't want to wreck anything because I think just springs and a timing chain will do lol
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If I did a cam again I would buy all this:
Said camshaft
Modular pulley hub and puller
Pulley of your choice, start with a big one and work your way down
FC Gasket
LIM Gaskets
Valve cover gaskets (if need be)
Supercharger gasket
Some RTV
Aluminum coolant elbows
ARP Assembly lube - Supposedly this isn't required, but I did it to be safe. It offers a nice graphite surface for your cam to glide on until the oil gets there.
Stronger springs
Double roller (which means you'll have some machining to do I believe)
Damper (if using single timing chain)
Retainers
Valve seals
Headers (choose one, they all have their pros and cons)
A cheap HAI, like a $40 cone
A can tune or HP Tuners.
A cam install kit on ZZP lumps alot of that together, check that out.
If you don't have to, don't remove/replace the heads/head gaskets. They are sealed wonderfully from the factory and hardly ever give problems.
Also, in regards to your downpipe, has it been used? If not, you can sell it for a lot of its value still. I did the same thing and only lost 20$ on mine.
I'll keep adding to this list, but this is a majority of it. You'll also need a spark plug port adapter and an air compressor to hold the valve up while you change each spring. Works like a charm.
I followed this guide for most of my installation. I deviated a lot near the end but it still turns out just fine.
http://www.3800pro.com/forum/cams-he...-l67-tech.html
Some tips:
- Get a breaker bar for when you have to loosen the crank bolt that holds the harmonic balancer on. Brace the breaker bar against the subframe and turn the ignition to loosen the bolt. Doesn't take much, only click it over, not hold it.
- Autozone/Advance auto offer pulley pullers, but the screws they have don't work with the harmonic balancer on our car. I would have to measure the screws I used, but I put washers on them and threaded them into the holes of the balancer.
- You can lower the subframe to install your cam (if you didn't know yet).
- When the job is finished, prime your engine with oil first by cranking it over 10-20 times with no fuel/spark
Last edited by Nchristopherson; 04-28-2014 at 08:34 PM.
Ok, thanks the the list! So what kind of machining am I looking at? Something I could do myself with some basic power tool experience (commercial plumber by trade)? Or is it something very specific that needs experience?
And what is the difference in the pullys? Better or worse ones to go with? I don't mean sizes, but I remember seeing someone saying to my go with a certain kind, but forgot why
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So if you plan to run the double roller timing chain, which is recommended above (105#) springs, check out this page. It will give you the infos
http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/...iming-Set.aspx
As for the pulleys, the smaller the pulley, the higher the boost. The higher the boost the higher the inlet temps. The higher the inlet temps, the more KR. So you combat KR by opening inlets/outlets, cooling the air charge, etc.
Edit: Didn't see you asked difference in pulley types. Doesn't matter which brand, just get the modular hub and stick with that brand.
I just went with the ZZP modular hub, it's the only one I have used. I have no complaints about it.
Also, speaking of supercharger, check your coupler for play. If there is play, get some supercharger oil and a new coupler and do that too. Might as well while she's down and apart.
Will do! My car is an 07 with 86xxx KMS on it though, so I'd hope that'll all be good still. When is a good time to change the oil anyways?
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If it has never been changed, it can't hurt to change it. I believe the recommendation is every 40,000 miles or 64,000 km so you're not far off. You'll know if it's overdue because it is a rancid smell.
You don't have to take the snout off to change the oil, you can use a squirt bottle nozze and stick the hose into the reservoir to suck it out. Just take the threaded bung off of the s/c snout and give it a whiff or inspect it. SC oil is cheap anyways. Btw, it won't leak out everywhere. It shouldn't lol.
^^^this^^^
Please do read up on it all, make a plan, read again, ask lots of questions. Then finalize plan and begin assembling all the parts before jumping I the pool head first. Like why cam?
I had a plan, and still changed things. It just helps. If you have a clear idea of what you want out of the engine, it'll guide you. For instance, track car or DD? Max HP or just a little kick? Is all relative...
Definitely +1 on the reading up on it all.. It took me over a year of compiling information about this job before I had the confidence to do it right, and I still had a guide right next to me. I bought tons of parts and made sure I had everything to do it right the first time.
Btw, when you do it, TRIPLE CHECK your timing chain lol. You may think nothing of it now, but you don't wanna get all done, filling it up with fluids and trying to crank it over, only to find out you're 1-2 teeth off.
Also, labeled baggies are your best friend. When you have 10 different bags with 7 different bolts in each of them, it really clears things up. And take as many pictures as you possibly can. Every time I got stuck, I would make reference to them.
It is my DD, but I want the pep to take to the track. And more importantly, to pull away from my friends with T/As, and eventually to my buddy who owns a C5 vette.
I decided on the cam over rockers because everyone preaches how they're better over rockers. And I tend to always strive for more and I'd kick myself if I didn't go with a cam to begin with. Like I said, my current ideal setup would include headers, cam, Front mount IC, and whatever pully(s) I can safely run. I live in canada, so I see -30*C without the wind, which ends up a 60+*C change from summer to winter. So as far as pullies, I'd likely have two to switch from. But the cam is something I've never touched on a vehicle before. I read up what I can, but many try to say minimal is good enough when some say they're probably hurting things over time. And vice versa with the people who like to throw money on almost pointless bits. So I don't know what to go with that won't leave me with a crap engine at only 100kms lol
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